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Ola`s jimny project

  • OlaGB
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21 Jul 2018 08:45 #194522 by OlaGB
Got another look at the idle today. Lubed up the control valve, which was partially stuck, and now it atleast idles at 1200rpm steady.
Not sure why it`s not lower. Checked all hose connections etc, but cant find anything wrong.

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21 Jul 2018 11:40 #194524 by sniper
Just a thought, could it be that the throttle angle at idle is the same as before but now with the larger butterfly, your getting lots more air ?

I think your right about the exhaust, in your position, I would use the Aussie manifold and build a system with a sports cat in mild steel.

sniper

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  • OlaGB
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21 Jul 2018 13:50 #194527 by OlaGB

sniper wrote: Just a thought, could it be that the throttle angle at idle is the same as before but now with the larger butterfly, your getting lots more air ?

I think your right about the exhaust, in your position, I would use the Aussie manifold and build a system with a sports cat in mild steel.

sniper


I thought so as well, but the butterfly is closed on both TB`s at idle, so the idle control circuit is the only place for air to pass by..
But i will give it a good clean and test some more.. Every now and then it actually does settle down now, so it might still be residue in the idle control valve.

Do you think the aussie manifold is any better than the stock? I asked them directly, and theire response was that it was not made to increase power, only to replace the cracking stock manifolds. They had no dyno results of it..
But it is under consideration.

I also consider to just clean out the cat from the stock manifold, and build a 2" system with a quality muffler in the rear, either with a race cat, or go fully cat-less. Not sure yet.

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21 Jul 2018 15:57 - 21 Jul 2018 16:01 #194530 by sniper
The Aussie manifold is not perfect but it has to flow better than standard, you lose the top cat too so flow has to be much improved.

The only other cheap way around it would be to use a swift manifold, cut them, turn 90deg and re-weld. I'm sure it will be a little more involved but looks quite easy £120 on fleabay in stainless.

I think the Aussie and a single 200cpa sports cat system would let much more through the engine.

I've just spent all my spare cash on an ATB diff or I would be doing the same now.

sniper
Last edit: 21 Jul 2018 16:01 by sniper.

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  • OlaGB
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21 Jul 2018 18:45 #194534 by OlaGB

sniper wrote: The Aussie manifold is not perfect but it has to flow better than standard, you lose the top cat too so flow has to be much improved.

The only other cheap way around it would be to use a swift manifold, cut them, turn 90deg and re-weld. I'm sure it will be a little more involved but looks quite easy £120 on fleabay in stainless.

I think the Aussie and a single 200cpa sports cat system would let much more through the engine.

I've just spent all my spare cash on an ATB diff or I would be doing the same now.

sniper


It's just so annoying, doing everything close to perfect, and then gamble on a random made exhaust that i cant find any dyno or test results from.

But we'll see, im not in a hurry.. Its running better than ever now with the new intake mod.
A good clean out of the TB + ecu reset, seems to have solved the idle issue as well now!

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23 Jul 2018 06:46 #194548 by yakuza
Hi!
Still on 98 octane?
Mine is good now on 98. Had a 8 hour drive south to Stord on 98 and the car performed quite good. Worst was going home up Modalen area. too long uphill with 600kg trailer.
My Swift (m13 no VVT 90hp) has this punch on high revs that my Jimny has none of with its m16. the intake manifold and TB must be it it seems.
Have you checked if your exhaust manifold cat is OK?
Sounds like i have too start collecting parts but now my budget still suffers from holiday and low gears for my transfer.
Has your transfer gotten more silent? Still gear noise from mine, but much less. Will change the gear oil now that i soon have reached 1000km of use after installing.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.

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