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Body lift Jimmy 04 1.3 help
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Castor correction on a 50mm lift seems to be entirely dependent on the specific vehicle and the driver. For some people it is not a problem for others it removes the self centering of the steering and promotes vagueness and even death wobble. Try it without first and see how it feels.
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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Scot The Sniper wrote: Ok back again just got my shocks threw so gonna fit the rear springs and shocks. I have 2 questions
1. On trolling threw the facebook jimny groups i noticed someone doing a 2" lift and asking if he should put the rubber cones back in on top of the lift kit when i took my plastic 1.5 inch lift spacers out of my spring i did not have any rubber cones to put back in will i need these please.
2 will i need to buy castor correction bushes for the front radious arms
Thx in advance
1. Yes - the spring seats are there to stop metal on metal contact, i.e. the spring in the chassis cup, so there should be a rubber "cone" on the top of each spring, or rather in the chassis cup...
2. As per Lambert's reply... it all depends on the actual lift you get from the advertised 2" lift kit... some need castor correction, some dont... the trailmaster kit for instance, I feel is a conservative 2" lift Many people report more than a 2" lift, as when you fit a lift kit you are replacing an old tired sagged spring with a new heavier duty one... As Lambert says, best way is to fit the springs and take it out for a drive, see how it feels to you... if it wanders lane to lane, feels vague, or wobbles... you'll decide you may need castor correction (offset bushes or new arms)...
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- jackonlyjack
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These fit between body and chassis YES you will need them in
But i could be miss understanding
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- Scot The Sniper
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- Scot The Sniper
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Ok fitted the 4 3" springs 4x 3" shocks took out for a test drive pulling badly to the right you need to keep hold of the steering any ideas please guys
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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A wheel alignment/tracking at a garage is always needed after altering this sort of stuff. Problem is finding one that will work on a modified car usually
Panhard rods are probably out as well (or have you covered that already?) If adjustable you need to set them so that the axle is central to the chassis. Measure off the chassis to the tyre and get it in the middle before worrying about the steering bars.
If you do take it to a garage for an alignment/tracking the steering 'toe-in' should be set at 2 degrees inwards (for a standard car, maybe less for huge tyres). The only other thing they can adjust is the panhards (if adjustable), but thats more for centering the axle to the car properly, but it does have an affect on the steering position so needs set before the steering bars
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
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- Scot The Sniper
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So now i need to buy adjustable panhard rods
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- Roger Fairclough
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Roger
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- Roger Fairclough
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- Scot The Sniper
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Hi roger thx for this info i had spotted these before and on actual fact there the vacuum pipes for the 4x4 and thete in had im gonna use brake pipe to fix them but thanks for the infoRoger Fairclough wrote: Sorry , meant to say 3rd picture.
Roger
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