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Just found an old thread on a subject that i've been thinking about for a while........converting to permanent 4wd. What seems to be an obvious choice would be the landrover LT230 transfer case. I'd be interested to know if anybody else has done/attempted this or even just done any investigating into the possibility.
I'd like to fit a bigger battery for obvious reasons and i've seen various people claiming that a bigger battery will physically fit on the standard jimny battery tray but can anybody prove it with a picture? I don't like the idea of a battery in the back as there is nowhere 'out of the way' to put it, so i'd like to keep it under the bonnet if poss.
I've just got the clutch hydraulics to bleed up and give the brakes an overhaul then should be good to go..........to an MOT and find out all the things that are wrong with it! One of them being king pins and rust in the rear of the body
I actually did manage to drive it around my place yesterday, felt great! The gearing has turned out spot on. Only issue at the moment is the clutch is dragging when pressed down fully, which got me very worried that my CSC spacer wasn't the right thickness and that i might have to take the engine out.....AGAIN!. Thanks to Autodoc tho i managed to work out that the Astra clutch master cylinder i've used is a lot smaller than the Omega one that would have matched the slave cylinder i'm using (the Omega one has a 44% larger piston area). Therefore if i convert the master cylinder to one with a 19mm bore it should hopefully cure the problem
Have you thought any further about the permanent 4wd idea? I was thinking about this recently and decided that a viscous coupling on the front prop would be the way to go. You're looking at around £500 for a reconditioned Freelander viscous coupling, then it's a case of making some brackets to mount it forward of the transfer case and getting the front prop shortened accordingly. But much less work than a full transfer swap.
I haven't but i like the idea of the viscous coupling. I took one of my front hub covers off the other day as i was always under the impression that the vacuum system was required not only to engage the hubs but also to keep them engaged. To my amazement i found that this isn't the case, and the vacuum is only there for the initial engagement/disengagement. So as far as i can tell if the hubs are in the locked position they will stay there (as i've removed the vacuum system).
Jefferies wrote: I haven't but i like the idea of the viscous coupling. I took one of my front hub covers off the other day as i was always under the impression that the vacuum system was required not only to engage the hubs but also to keep them engaged. To my amazement i found that this isn't the case, and the vacuum is only there for the initial engagement/disengagement. So as far as i can tell if the hubs are in the locked position they will stay there (as i've removed the vacuum system).
They are held by magnetism. The vacuum is just used to move them.
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Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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