Are you building a Mud Monster or a Pavement Princess??
If so you can have your own thread in this section.
This section on other websites has led to arguments and contention. People are posting pictures of their pride and joy and therefore CONSTRUCTIVE comments only please!

Ulysses

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23 Aug 2020 17:30 #227218 by Roger Fairclough
Replied by Roger Fairclough on topic Ulysses
Are solid tubes available ie non crushable ?

Roger

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23 Aug 2020 18:56 #227225 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic Ulysses

Roger Fairclough wrote: Are solid tubes available ie non crushable ?

Roger


Perhaps, but the whole point of it being 'crushable' is that it is used to give the correct backlash to the pinion shaft in the form of preloading it correctly as its fitted. Doing it up too far means its goosed and changing anything wrong to do with the preloading will do for the bearings pretty quickly, so it need changed properly when doing pinion shaft work to ensure proper diff operation. Its also a pig to get at, meaning I want it done right first time :laugh:

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
The following user(s) said Thank You: Lambert

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23 Aug 2020 21:26 - 24 Aug 2020 02:39 #227237 by Roger Fairclough
Replied by Roger Fairclough on topic Ulysses
I bought one for my Landcruiser. It came with a set of shims of various thickness. You use the shims to obtain the correct pre-load.Once this is done you tighten the nut, stake it and that's it.Because it's a solid tube and therefore wont flex the pre-load remains constant. Also if your seal leaks again, you remove the nut, flange and seal: fit a new seal, replace flange and nut, torque it up, stake the nut refit prop and jobs done.Now if you do it your way you have to scrap the crushable tube which means removing the outer pinion bearing which can be a pain, fit a new tube, put it all back together and pray as you torque the pinion nut that you will obtain the right pre-load. Problem is that pre-load should be obtained without any drag from the diff or brakes etc which means you need to strip out the diff. from the axle. Do it with a solid tube and the pinion shaft is more rigid and further seal failures are a doddle to fix.

Roger
Last edit: 24 Aug 2020 02:39 by Lambert. Reason: Swearing. Please remember this is a family friendly forum.

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24 Aug 2020 13:38 #227281 by sniper
Replied by sniper on topic Ulysses
The video's are great, it's good to see how impressed the Landy drivers are..... It goes up that hill like it's being pulled, sounds great Riccy.

Bummer about the damage, shafts ain't cheap.... There's a firm in Nottingham that makes shafts, I can't remember the name but happy to have a drive by if it will help. I picked up some truck shafts for a buddy once, they had just got back from hardening. Looked to be very serious gear...

Mine sounds quite similar to yours but is lacking in the guts department lol......

sniper

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24 Aug 2020 16:59 #227297 by HUN
Replied by HUN on topic Ulysses

Riccy wrote: And now for the downside...
...
Took the rear diff out today and also found the rear shaft on the driverside has warped a bit with all the stick its had in the last 2 weeks...


That shaft is part of the floating rear axle kit which is not in stock in Russia at the moment unfortunately. Where from you'll get replacement? Do you know an alternative supplier?

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
Full floating rear axle conversion, JB underbody guards & recovery points
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM manual hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers

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24 Aug 2020 17:20 #227299 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic Ulysses

Roger Fairclough wrote: I bought one for my Landcruiser. It came with a set of shims of various thickness. You use the shims to obtain the correct pre-load.Once this is done you tighten the nut, stake it and that's it.Because it's a solid tube and therefore wont flex the pre-load remains constant. Also if your seal leaks again, you remove the nut, flange and seal: fit a new seal, replace flange and nut, torque it up, stake the nut refit prop and jobs done.Now if you do it your way you have to scrap the crushable tube which means removing the outer pinion bearing which can be a pain, fit a new tube, put it all back together and pray as you torque the pinion nut that you will obtain the right pre-load. Problem is that pre-load should be obtained without any drag from the diff or brakes etc which means you need to strip out the diff. from the axle. Do it with a solid tube and the pinion shaft is more rigid and further seal failures are a doddle to fix.

Roger


Thanks Roger, I get what you mean about it now. Taking the diff out isnt a problem, it has to come out to do the work anyway as the planetary set needs removed in order to get at the crush (or solid) collar and bearings anyway. I will look into it a bit more ;-)

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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