If so you can have your own thread in this section.
This section on other websites has led to arguments and contention. People are posting pictures of their pride and joy and therefore CONSTRUCTIVE comments only please!
Ulysses
- Roger Fairclough
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Roger Fairclough wrote: Are solid tubes available ie non crushable ?
Roger
Perhaps, but the whole point of it being 'crushable' is that it is used to give the correct backlash to the pinion shaft in the form of preloading it correctly as its fitted. Doing it up too far means its goosed and changing anything wrong to do with the preloading will do for the bearings pretty quickly, so it need changed properly when doing pinion shaft work to ensure proper diff operation. Its also a pig to get at, meaning I want it done right first time :laugh:
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
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- Roger Fairclough
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Bummer about the damage, shafts ain't cheap.... There's a firm in Nottingham that makes shafts, I can't remember the name but happy to have a drive by if it will help. I picked up some truck shafts for a buddy once, they had just got back from hardening. Looked to be very serious gear...
Mine sounds quite similar to yours but is lacking in the guts department lol......
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Riccy wrote: And now for the downside...
...
Took the rear diff out today and also found the rear shaft on the driverside has warped a bit with all the stick its had in the last 2 weeks...
That shaft is part of the floating rear axle kit which is not in stock in Russia at the moment unfortunately. Where from you'll get replacement? Do you know an alternative supplier?
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Roger Fairclough wrote: I bought one for my Landcruiser. It came with a set of shims of various thickness. You use the shims to obtain the correct pre-load.Once this is done you tighten the nut, stake it and that's it.Because it's a solid tube and therefore wont flex the pre-load remains constant. Also if your seal leaks again, you remove the nut, flange and seal: fit a new seal, replace flange and nut, torque it up, stake the nut refit prop and jobs done.Now if you do it your way you have to scrap the crushable tube which means removing the outer pinion bearing which can be a pain, fit a new tube, put it all back together and pray as you torque the pinion nut that you will obtain the right pre-load. Problem is that pre-load should be obtained without any drag from the diff or brakes etc which means you need to strip out the diff. from the axle. Do it with a solid tube and the pinion shaft is more rigid and further seal failures are a doddle to fix.
Roger
Thanks Roger, I get what you mean about it now. Taking the diff out isnt a problem, it has to come out to do the work anyway as the planetary set needs removed in order to get at the crush (or solid) collar and bearings anyway. I will look into it a bit more
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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