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Ola`s jimny project

  • OlaGB
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17 Apr 2018 13:03 #191807 by OlaGB

mdog18 wrote: What does "ET" mean? Sorry I'm still learning the basics!

Offset!

Explained in detail here: www.driverstechnology.co.uk/wheel-offset.htm

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

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18 Apr 2018 05:27 #191849 by kirkynut
Looking good!

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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18 Apr 2018 09:23 #191852 by yakuza

OlaGB wrote: Buffed off some scratches and got it to shine alittle..

Spare wheel bracket needs paint, so im running naked for a while.
And that huuuge towbar... Hmm, probably gotta go. Might buy a new, shorter one.

My towbar was bought from www.haagen.no/ was a slim detachable Thule thing. Seems like they are rebranded Brink now:
www.haagen.no/product_info.php?info=p423...art--automatisk.html
Could be that one.
Picked the one that looked like it would hang the most up and out of the way and with no key (who would steal it?).
Could be smart to change your exhaust back box before mounting that tow bar as it blocks the easiest way to change it.
I had to take the rear bumper off to change mine straight out the back instead of down, wich was no big operation.
They also have the ready made cable kit to hook up a 13 pin socket for the trailer, much more reliable than the 7 pin.

Beware that some producers have a reduced total weight and not all tow bars are approved for 1300kg.

I have been pulling a 1100 kg horse trailer and/or a 1200kg water tank with no hassle. None of those as spooky as a 2000kg load of planks..
Hmm.. beginning to understand why the gearbox broke down..

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
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18 Apr 2018 12:33 #191860 by OlaGB
Thanks for the link! Looks pretty similar to mine, minus some rust!

The "detachable" part on mine, isnt detachable anymore...stuck in rust. So maybe ill just live with having to use tools on the bolts on it instead, since i rarely use it.. And make a 13pin socket on the bumper next to the reg plate instead of hanging down in the mud and salt.

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  • MadsV
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18 Apr 2018 15:36 #191869 by MadsV
I made an effort trying to release the tow bar, without any luck. I used the induction warmer also but i gave up. Considering removing the whole thing but sometimes its nice to have it!

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19 Apr 2018 15:30 - 27 Apr 2018 19:06 #191897 by OlaGB
Got my castor correction bushings + the stock suzuki upgrade bushings installed! Alot better to drive now.. It really should be included in the lift kit.





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Last edit: 27 Apr 2018 19:06 by OlaGB.

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  • MadsV
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19 Apr 2018 17:51 #191903 by MadsV
Very nice! I really need to do the castor correction, how did you feel it was different?

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19 Apr 2018 18:12 #191904 by Riccy
Nice as well ;-)

How did you get the bushes out? that bit of wood looks designed for it. I remember them being an absolute nighmare to get out without a huge press. ended up drilling and hammering them out (now on KAP corrected HD arms, which are v. good, except I have 4.5" spring height instead of the 3" they were made for :-) )

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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  • OlaGB
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19 Apr 2018 20:22 #191906 by OlaGB

MadsV wrote: Very nice! I really need to do the castor correction, how did you feel it was different?


Tracks better straight forward, and doesnt feel so wiggly in center.. And it wants to go back to center by itself after a sharp turn..

The upgrade bushing on the rear end of the arm, is to reduce wobble.. And now it's wobble free! Atleast for now B)

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19 Apr 2018 20:30 #191907 by OlaGB

Riccy wrote: Nice as well ;-)

How did you get the bushes out? that bit of wood looks designed for it. I remember them being an absolute nighmare to get out without a huge press. ended up drilling and hammering them out (now on KAP corrected HD arms, which are v. good, except I have 4.5" spring height instead of the 3" they were made for :-) )


First i put the arm on the piece of wood, and ran a 12mm drill through all three holes. Then i put in bolts through the holes in the wood, and checked that both arms where alligned, and the wood could be used as a jig / measure for the two front bushings.

Then i drilled 1 12mm hole through the rubber bushing, and cut the outter ring with a jigsaw. Be careful, very easy to cut to deep.
Then the bushings could be knocked out easily with a hammer. All bushings out within 30min.

A buddy brought the arms to his job, and pressed in bushings for me. And he used the "wood jig" to check the bolt hole distance.
Everything bolted up perfectly..

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  • Daniel30
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20 Apr 2018 08:07 #191935 by Daniel30
Good job

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  • OlaGB
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23 Apr 2018 13:30 #192068 by OlaGB
The motor showed up! 2007 Swift Sport 125hp.
I would love to use the sport intake, as it really looks heaps better than the Jimny intake, but that would need a new throttle body thats alot bigger.
The intake is 56mm , which is 10mm more than the M13a, and bolt CC is also approx 10mm wider.. So, not going to happen i guess.

Some pics






Car is booked for wheel allignment tomorrow, and approval of the lift kit on friday..
Motor swap will be after this is done!
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