Suspension question

supergaz wrote: Prop spacers are only needed if caster correction for 3'' or above is used. I have a 4.5'' lift with castor correction for 4.5'' lift and use a 1'' prop spacer only on the transfer box end of the front prop.
I have also just fitted a 2'' body lift from jimnybits as he can also supply steering shaft spacers, these are highly recommended on a 2'' body lift and above.

Hi Supergaz

I am also shopping from Jimnybits and I am planning to buy the following items
-castor corrected bushes - super pro - 4 pcs;
- rear panhard relocation bracket;
- spring spacers of 1" super pro;
- steering rod spacer
and some other items which I already purchased from there.
Looks, like with upgraded trail master from 2"to 3" I will have to fix also these prop spacers on transfer box shaft .
I hope that 1" will be enough.

Yours
Nikolay

ooky_123 wrote: Im running a +2" suspension lift, +2" body lift on standard radius arms and pannard rods.

Just fitted the lower ration transfer case and now am looking to move up to 31" tyres from the current 29" ones.

Might swap out the pannard rods forst, and the radius arms with castor correction closer to the winter

Hi

Can you share information about what kind of lower ration transfer case:
- mini lobster;
- rock lobster;
- rock crawler.
It will be very nice if you can share, where in UK I can buy one of these. I believe I am going to need something like that.
I am looking on that one, but I am not sure is it compatible with my 2001 Jimny

www.calmini4x4.de/CALMINI-514-1-ROCKCRAWLER-GEARSET

Yours
Nikolay

With just castor correction bushes you should not need a prop spacer, 1/2'' at most, Castor correction bushes return the diff/axle back to its original angle after fitting lift springs or spacers. A prop spacer is used due to the extra droop between the transfer box and diff. If you look at the space between the front prop and the chassis cross member then this gap closes up when the diff is returned to its correct angle. I have castor correction arms for a 4.5'' lift and even with a 1'' prop spacer there is a very small gap between the prop and cross member as the prop is now more vertical.

supergaz wrote: With just castor correction bushes you should not need a prop spacer, 1/2'' at most, Castor correction bushes return the diff/axle back to its original angle after fitting lift springs or spacers. A prop spacer is used due to the extra droop between the transfer box and diff. If you look at the space between the front prop and the chassis cross member then this gap closes up when the diff is returned to its correct angle. I have castor correction arms for a 4.5'' lift and even with a 1'' prop spacer there is a very small gap between the prop and cross member as the prop is now more vertical.

Hi, Mate

I like to fix exactly same tyres like yours or may be 30". This is why I am trying to make all this modification now. Can you tell please do you have some modification in your T-case. Some of these which I already mentioned above. I now that only lifting and body lifting will be not enough to fit such a tyres, without to make some modification on the T-case. Please advice, where in UK I can find such a modification parts. So far I am buying everything for my Jimny from UK.

Best regards:
Nikolay

Mate what are you trying to achieve here? Like what sort of off road jimny are you trying to build?

See the the main issue here is gearing it is rather $$$ to gear a jimny to suit larger tyres, it's even harder to gear a late model jimny this is one of the reasons why i;m not running 30"(or bigger). IMO a much better path to go down it 2-3" lift with 235's tyre on off set rims, add a locker or 2 and it will be unstoppable. There is no real need to add a body lift to clear 30''s i know a few people who are running 235's and NO lift at all and other running 3"lift with 30's.

Monkey wrote: Mate what are you trying to achieve here? Like what sort of off road jimny are you trying to build?

See the the main issue here is gearing it is rather $$$ to gear a jimny to suit larger tyres, it's even harder to gear a late model jimny this is one of the reasons why i;m not running 30"(or bigger). IMO a much better path to go down it 2-3" lift with 235's tyre on off set rims, add a locker or 2 and it will be unstoppable. There is no real need to add a body lift to clear 30''s i know a few people who are running 235's and NO lift at all and other running 3"lift with 30's.

Hi, Mate

So, you running you Jimny without any gear modification and there is no any issues with performance in terms of speed and power range of a standard factory car. That's very good, so then I will make like you. I will do this +1" for trial master and in order to cut less may be I will fix also 2"body lift and then I will make a try.

Thanks

Yours
Nikolay

Got the tyres fitted

I've fitted 30" malatesta kaiman and what a diferrence it makes and the jimny looks now

Did some trimming on the arches and bumpers and that was all, but will have to flex the suspension to see if the tires will rub anywhere ....

Seawolfvarna wrote:

Monkey wrote: Mate what are you trying to achieve here? Like what sort of off road jimny are you trying to build?

See the the main issue here is gearing it is rather $$$ to gear a jimny to suit larger tyres, it's even harder to gear a late model jimny this is one of the reasons why i;m not running 30"(or bigger). IMO a much better path to go down it 2-3" lift with 235's tyre on off set rims, add a locker or 2 and it will be unstoppable. There is no real need to add a body lift to clear 30''s i know a few people who are running 235's and NO lift at all and other running 3"lift with 30's.

Hi, Mate

So, you running you Jimny without any gear modification and there is no any issues with performance in terms of speed and power range of a standard factory car. That's very good, so then I will make like you. I will do this +1" for trial master and in order to cut less may be I will fix also 2"body lift and then I will make a try.

Thanks

Yours
Nikolay

No! There is still a power loss, as 235's are around 12% bigger than stock tyres, so you will notice a difference, but if you have good driving technique you should be fine, just need to work the REV's and gear box more, but any bigger than 235's gearing is a must. I should also note, that i do have a few performance mods, to gain a bit back. Also there is no need for a body lift, you won;t get any tyres scrubbing issues cus you already have the ORA front and rear bars right?

But please don;t body lift, there is no need for it unless you are planning on 31's or bigger.

you don't need a body lift for 31"
just add some 1.5" coil spacers

Mate

You dont need a body lift, I have the 30" fitted no body lift and no problem except I had to trim the arches.

Relation to power I have a rocklobster fitted in mine so power is not an issue

If you are looking to go bigger then 235's as Monkey said gearing is a must... even a 235's I think you are already asking to much of the clutch and the low range is kind of to hi ....

MigCooper wrote: Mate

You dont need a body lift, I have the 30" fitted no body lift and no problem except I had to trim the arches.

Relation to power I have a rocklobster fitted in mine so power is not an issue

If you are looking to go bigger then 235's as Monkey said gearing is a must... even a 235's I think you are already asking to much of the clutch and the low range is kind of to hi ....

Your doing it wrong.... you need to use your right foot more

lol

kind going slow down hill that is my biggest worry ..... Thats where I felt the low range was more needed