Ola`s jimny project

There was a mention from someone a while ago on here that had used the crank pulley from the donor engine. With a slightly longer belt it meant that the alternator and water pump were driven slightly faster. Ideal for charging winch batteries, etc. A/C and power steering were unaffected.

That looks a nice clean one you have there

I think using the donor crank pulley over speeds the power steering as that's the bigger one the alty side is the same diameter as the Jimny but 5 rib.

Do you intend to keep the oil cooler?

Oil cooler and Defa-element looks like it has to be relocated.
That intake looks like it could be responsible for much of the gain in hp compared to the Liana m16a.
And different injectors also apparently..

yakuza wrote: Oil cooler and Defa-element looks like it has to be relocated.
That intake looks like it could be responsible for much of the gain in hp compared to the Liana m16a.
And different injectors also apparently..

j999pre wrote: Do you intend to keep the oil cooler?

Dont think i`ll be using either oil cooler or heater element, so they will be removed..

The intake sure looks alot better! 25hp better? I highly doubt it, maybe 10hp..
Would be VERY good to find a throttle body that fit the intake.. Even though it wouldnt look 100% stock, i think it would pass inspections anyway.

Need to sort these details out soon, same as for what to do with exhaust. Has to be done 100% before hitting the dyno for remap.

Wheel allignment done. Had a little toe out that got corrected.
The caster correction bushings did the job, but theres room for more angle. I used the molded bushes from jimnybits.


Started working on the SSS motor.. Changed to a new crank pulley, thermostat and water pump. Removed oil cooler/filter, air-intake and oil sump.
Ready to start the swap next week, just got to get the lift kit approved first. (Tomorrow).
Ive removed the pipes from the waterpump as well, just wasnt done in this picture..


Piston oil cooling / squirters



The "normal" old style crank sensor plate..

OlaGB wrote: Wheel allignment done. Had a little toe out that got corrected.
The caster correction bushings did the job, but theres room for more angle. I used the molded bushes from jimnybits.

Same "problem" with my bushings.
I calculated from my own rough measurements that the bushings should have 5.6mm offset to compensate fully for the 2" lift but they are less for some reason. I couldn't find my measurement of the offset bushings i bought.
well, ideally it should be 5.8mm front offset and 5.5mm aft bushing offset but that is a bit theoretical

Your engine looked nice inside by the way.
Mine had clean oil inside too, probably crashed on its way back from servicing.

Ola you have reminded me of something with the water pump...

You will need to swap the M13 thermostat housing onto the M16 as the bolt pattern wont line up with the plastic hose adapter going down through the engine mount from the M13.

This caused me some head scratching for a few months until i realised that the thermostat housing just pulls off the water pump :laugh:

Riccy wrote: Ola you have reminded me of something with the water pump...

You will need to swap the M13 thermostat housing onto the M16 as the bolt pattern wont line up with the plastic hose adapter going down through the engine mount from the M13.

This caused me some head scratching for a few months until i realised that the thermostat housing just pulls off the water pump :laugh:

Yeah, will be moving it all over from the M13

yakuza wrote:

OlaGB wrote: Wheel allignment done. Had a little toe out that got corrected.
The caster correction bushings did the job, but theres room for more angle. I used the molded bushes from jimnybits.

Same "problem" with my bushings.
I calculated from my own rough measurements that the bushings should have 5.6mm offset to compensate fully for the 2" lift but they are less for some reason. I couldn't find my measurement of the offset bushings i bought.
well, ideally it should be 5.8mm front offset and 5.5mm aft bushing offset but that is a bit theoretical

Didnt do any measurments myself, but they seemed to be very similar all of the available types of bushings..
They work fine though, so i wont do anything more about it for now.. Next step would be new arms i guess.

I pulled my 2012 SSS motor apart yesterday.

Unfortunately I noticed a few differences from the other m16a swaps I've done.

1. Cam sensor ring is different, only 3 lugs 2 single 1 double unlike the 4 the earlier ones all use.

2. Crankshaft sensor plate is different too

3. No egr gallery on the back of the head.

4. The rear water gallery next to where the egr normally is is larger and the three bolts are spaced wider so the Jimny fitting with the temp sensor won't fit.

I'll need to pull the crank and cam to swap the sensor rings. Not really what I want to be doing.

Also no egr to run so I need to think how to tuck the ECU so I don't constantly get the EML on.

It's a long way to go. Maybe I should have stuck with the earlier sss engine or the less ambitious g16b swap. Car is originally a g series but I've all the wiring gearbox etc etc from a vvt

j999pre wrote: I pulled my 2012 SSS motor apart yesterday.

Unfortunately I noticed a few differences from the other m16a swaps I've done.

1. Cam sensor ring is different, only 3 lugs 2 single 1 double unlike the 4 the earlier ones all use.

2. Crankshaft sensor plate is different too

3. No egr gallery on the back of the head.

4. The rear water gallery next to where the egr normally is is larger and the three bolts are spaced wider so the Jimny fitting with the temp sensor won't fit.

I'll need to pull the crank and cam to swap the sensor rings. Not really what I want to be doing.

Also no egr to run so I need to think how to tuck the ECU so I don't constantly get the EML on.

It's a long way to go. Maybe I should have stuck with the earlier sss engine or the less ambitious g16b swap. Car is originally a g series but I've all the wiring gearbox etc etc from a vvt

Sorry to hear that

I`ve seen this before, and found that the change happened in 2010-2011 on the SSS motor (Probably all 136hp versions then)
What most people do, is to use the M13 head and cams (atleast intake cam) , and pull the crank out to change the sensor plate.
Some guys on Auszookers has done this and explained it well, have a look at "Rivar" and "Barrybanks" posts from approx mid page and on, on this link www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=30308&start=390

Rivar say`s he dynoed 85kw 145nm , while Barrybanks dynoed 82.5kw 148nm. Both on full exhaust + header, but stock Jimny intake.. I think both used Unichip for tuning. If i understood correct, Rivar used M16 cams , while Barrybanks used M13 cams.. Close numbers, but theres no dynocharts there to show curves, which are alot more interesting than max numbers.
Theres most likely a difference between the dyno`s as well, so we probably shouldnt compare the numbers directly.

Apparently, M13 head has a little bigger exhaust port than the SSS M16, but the M16 has more lift and duration on both cams.
(this information is about the SSS ZC32 136hp motor, the one without EGR port. I dont have this info on the older ZC31 that i have)