Re:Re:Re:Re:Front axle oil seal.

If you are happy with the condition and pre-load setting on the king pin bearings then Busta's method is correct.

But if you have removed the steering knuckle to check or replace the bearings or outer weather proof seal then you start with the fitting of the oil seal into the axle housing. Then you replace the outer weather proof seal/s. Then refit/replace steering knuckle outer bearing races. Place top bearing into position and fit bottom race onto bottom bearing cap and loosely bolt to steering knuckle. Angle knuckle downwards and slide into position onto axle housing. Knuckle is lifted upwards after bottom bearing locates in outer race and top bearing cap located to fix knuckle into position. All shims replaced where they came from. Once the bottom bearing is fixed onto the cap it cannot fall out.

With the knuckle correctly assembled the drive shaft is offered up. Hold the stub axle so the the axle shaft is parallel to the axle case. Then slide the assembly into the case. A smear of grease onto the oil seal and that part of the shaft that rotates within the seal is good practice.

Roger

Also check the condition of the drive shaft in the area that runs inside the seal. I had one that kept leaking and on closer inspection this surface was damaged, presumably from someone ham-fistedly hammering off the CV joint.

Thank you Roger and Busta,

A couple of quick questions..
Is this the tool I will need to do the job without taking off the kingpins?  www.bigjimny.com/store/hub-nut-tool.html  
Can I easily get a replacement for the circlip that holds the square washer on? Would probably be easier to remove if I don't have to save it 
Thanks

Ray

The king pins hold the steering knuckle to the axle shaft and the inner, outer hubs and the brake disc attach to the knuckle. If you just want to replace the inner oil seal - the one that separates the grease in the knuckle from the oil in the diff - then it is possible to do so by removing the king pins and pulling the whole hub/knuckle assembly off, but note that this is a heavy lump of metal and may be difficult to control. As you will need to remove the brake caliper, removing the disc is common sense as this reduces the weight and the bulk considerably.
If you don't want to dismantle the king pins then you must start by removing the hub and this means using the special tool.
So, in sequence, remove wheel, caliper, brake disc, outer hub with bearings - using special tool - inner hub, drive shaft. This gives you access to the inside of the knuckle and the oil seal. When you have got this far, take a good look at the condition of the grease. Is it milky in colour? This is a sign of water contamination. If it glints it is probably metal fragments and if it is dirty it's probably got dirt in it. For the circlip try Martin or your dealer.

On a personal note I would always strip out the lot. Weather seals, inner seals, wheel bearings, kingpins. Strip out the lot, clean it all and refit/replace with fresh grease and settings. But that's me.

Roger

RayPaterson wrote: Thank you Roger and Busta,

A couple of quick questions..
Is this the tool I will need to do the job without taking off the kingpins?  www.bigjimny.com/store/hub-nut-tool.html  
Can I easily get a replacement for the circlip that holds the square washer on? Would probably be easier to remove if I don't have to save it 
Thanks

Ray

The tool is only needed to change the wheel bearing (and associated Spindle bush). It is not needed for any work around the hub, including Kingpins and CV joint work. 

Thank you, yes, I am a 'may as well do the lot' person. It also makes sense that if the seal has gone then the grease will be contaminated with oil. At least that means I don't need to get the hub tool. I will get circlips though.

​​​​​​Ray