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Busta re your video, I've learned something new tonight, I never knew the CV fitted through the hole in the swivel with the stub removed, probably because I've only ever been in there because the king pin bearings needed replacing. But why do you need to remove the freewheeling hub and the circlip? Thanks, John.
On the 8th Day God made the LandRover -
On the 9th day he swapped it for a Jimny.
I made that video to help people removing CVs. You need the circlip off to get the CV out of the hub, but it's also much easier to re-fit the driveshaft without having the whole hub on the end of it so I would reccomend it to anyone doing a similar job, especially if you've damaged seals while fitting the shafts in the past. Removing the hub and circlip should take no more than a minute but if for some reason you find it difficult then I'm sure it can be done with it still in place.
Ray, the circlip is reusable but you can get the size by measuring the diameter of the groove. I'll check it for you next time I'm near a CV...
The following user(s) said Thank You: Johnniehec, RayPaterson
I had a seal that would fail regularly and it turned out that the wheel baring was going. Might be worth checking that when you have it jacked up by grasping the wheel at the top and bottom and attempt to rock it.
There should be minimal movement. Excessive play may indicate a worn baring.
There are two possible sources of wheel movement, wheel bearings or king pins. If you find movement get someone to push hard on the foot brake. This will clamp the brake disc to the caliper and effectively eliminate wheel bearing wobble. If there is still movement at the tyre then it is king pin bearings. Note that it is possible to have both sets of bearings at fault at the same time. To eliminate just wheel bearing wear is easier if you have a stethoscope to hold against the end cover whilst you spin the wheel and listen for a rumbling. If both sets are perfect , there should be no movement at all when you rock the wheel.
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