Re:Re:Re:Re:Front axle oil seal.

I have replaced my kingpins fairly recently. They weren't worn but the oil seals were leaking. One of them has started leaking again. Am I making a rookie mistake? Is it easy to damage the oil seal during that bit of juggling when you put the shaft in and struggle to get the joint together without the bottom bearing falling out?
Ray

Are you using a proprietary seal or a genuine Suzuki? Seals from a bearing supplier are too rigid and don't flex enough to cope with the small deviation that exists on the drive shaft as you steer.

The bottom bearing needs to be located onto the King Pin when you re-fit the inner hub. That way it can't fall out.

Roger

Hi Ray,
I have only ever done this job once, and like Roger said I used the correct seal from Martins Shop ^^^^^. So yes the correct seal works well, but yes you can damage them if you are not careful. The shaft splines can damage the seal lip if you rest the shaft on the seal and simply push it in. Its better to guide it in with care, that way it prevents any potential damage of any seal you use.
Once past the splines you are unlikely to damage it with bearing juggling, but plenty of sticky grease will hold the bottom bearing in place as you swear at it.
Unforunately its a do it again job, hopefully second times a winner.
 

As already said genuine seals are best. I have also found that the blue waterproof grease Martin supplies in the shop makes the fitting of the bottom bearing much more pleasant as other than the tack of the grease there is nothing to support the bearing as you put the knuckle on.

Thanks everyone. Yes, I definitely used the proper seals from Martin.
I guess I did damage it with that bit of wrestling it takes to get the shaft in and joint together.
I have sent for seals and that's a few hours work to try and get it right.
Just wondering which job takes the most time to replace an under £5 part!
Ray

If you're only replacing the seal it's a relatively straightforward and quick job to acess by removing the stub axle rather than the king pins. Easiest on non-abs models. With ABS you will also need to pull off the wheel bearing in order to access the 4 bolts holding the stub axle on, but even that doesn't take long with the appropriate tool.
Vacuum hub off
Remove circlip and square washer from splines
Wheel off
Brake caliper yoke off
Disc off
Label and disconnect vacuum hoses
Remoive the 4x 14mm head bolts that hold the stub axle on and pull the whole assembly out with the driveshaft

That gives you easy acess to the seal.