Turbo M16A Jimny

Tbh what I know changes by the hour! Steep learning curve but rewarding

Did most of the wiring today, ECU connector 90% complete. Have ended doing it all myself and it’s pretty straight forward. Definitely recommend the online course by HPA (high performance academy) I did the wiring fundamentals course and it’s been invaluable. Also wired the coolant and air intake temp. Will get a auto electrician to double check at the end as I darent risk frying the ECU.

Took the idle control valve off (actually used a mallet and chisel to remove the connector and solenoid as I didn’t have a bit for the Japanese star bit. Then unscrewed the housing which was a absolute pain as the intake manifold headers were obstructing the screws. Will try a see if a local machine shop can make a blanking plate. 

Plate made 

Wired up relays and loosely put idle control plate as I am waiting for sealant to arrive. Going to buy a cheap heat gun to shrink wrap all these connectors 

Very boring update that the silicone finally arrived. Car is booked into dyno for 4th April. Will plug in Ecu and configure some of it when I am feeling brave. Figured I can remove the fuse for the main relay and also the fuse that does the coils and fuel pump. This means I can tell the ECU what auxillary output is each relay. This avoids all these things just turning on as the ECU would just ground them. Not sure if the fuel pump would want to be primed that long. I am using the 4x4 solenoid wires for the ECU power.

Some pictures of the old girl

Need to attach a wire to that shielding and connect to a specific pin on the ECU (shield ground) waiting for some more connectors.

Jimny has been transported to the garage with the Dyno, I am going there tomorrow to show what I have done etc. hope I have done it properly. In hindsight I would of not used crimp connectors as it’s harder to inspect the connection and potentially you can crimp the insulation and make a poor connection. The morning It went I noticed some silly errors I made, and was frantically re-wiring it.

I spoke to a Suzuki swift tuning company on the subject of spark plugs the other day and I asked what power the standard m16a can take. They said that the M16a from the swift sport is good to around 180-200 BHP. After that the cylinder liners can slide and people mistake it for the head bolts lifting. He said my engine will be better as it has a low compression ratio ( non VVT Liana has 9.7:1) that means that it will be more resistant to Pre-detonation (knock).I asked about forging and he said it’s really expensive on a m16a, as company’s don’t sell loads so the prices are really high. So engine swaps become more feasible. I am not chasing huge power but I want to get the most I can

Was thinking I might put a electric water pump and electric fan, something like this:

daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps

Visited dyno and they were happy with what I had done. He is going to start it tomorrow and is excited to do it, which is always a good sign. Took some pictures of some of the cars there. The MR2 is the rare supercharged version. I always wanted a Toyota celica gt4 as I had a Tamiya kit car as a child.

Still here reading with interest, not saying much as you are in uncharted territory for me.
Good luck on the Dyno.
Early MR2 my cup of tea, nice and rare for just being a MK1 even without the supercharger, bet it sounds great.
Mike