Dave's "S200KYS" Jimny 'laner Build...

Good luck for later

Lambert wrote: Good luck for later

That worked!

PASSED :woohoo:

Another years' greenlaning then...

My old GV? Not "Stumpy" ?! That was sold to a guy many years ago and has sat in a barn ever since...?

Well done on getting a pass on the MOT. I'm a bit late to the party I know!

I missed that the sills on the Mrs Beemer were rotten and it was obvious. So it happens. Not having any time is the issue!

Kirkynut

Now that photo posting seems to be fixed, I thought I'd re-post my MOT fixes for the integrity of the build thread and in case it helps anyone else out?...

Ok, taking each failure in turn

* Anti-roll bar insecure and impairing directional stability
* Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint excessively worn Nearside front
* Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint excessively worn Offside front

These three are soon fixed as -



I'd forgotten to bolt up the Anti-roll Bar disconnect after the Lake District Day Trip

* Suspension rod attachment bracket / mounting fractured Nearside Rear -




Indeed the Zanfi Panhard Rod raising bracket had a fracture in it...



So I took it off...!



And wound my rear Rockwatt adustable panhard rod out to suit

* Suspension component insecure and impairing directional stability (Front stabiliser arm) -



That translated to the lock nut on the front panhard rod was loose!

* Shock absorber has an excessively worn bush Offside front
* Shock absorber has an excessively worn bush Nearside front


Indeed, both bottom bushes on the AVO adjustable shocks were shot



So...



Rummaged through the garage and found the old rear bent AVO shocks (when the axle wrapped and took the piston rods out!) and stole the bushes from them... proving you should never throw stuff away, it will be usefull one day

* Steering locking device ineffective (Track rod end loose) -

Indeed it was, a quick twist with a spanner and all was well...

* Shock absorbers insecurely attached Offside Rear
* Shock absorbers insecurely attached Nearside Rear -



Hmmm, would have disputed this one, as they are in shock repositioners to let them move freely with the axle's articulation, but no point arguing so I nipped them up for the re-test, and then loosened them off straight afterwards

* Brake disc contaminated Nearside Rear -

Ahhh, slight oil leak from the axle making the disk a bit oily... an easy fix then, or so you would have thought?...

Wheel off, disk caliper / bracket off, pull shaft and replace the offending oil seal?...

Nah...! :S



One of the wheel studs was turning in the TG rear HD shaft's flange, another one, I've had a different one do this too!
So it was either weld it in-situ or forceably cut it off!



Enough to get the wheel off and later replace the stud...



Shaft finally out, damaged (whilst fitting by the look of it) oil seal replaced...



New wheel stud pulled through...



And that and the other three remaining un-welded studs then welded to the TG shaft's flange to stop any of them turning and stripping their splines in the flange again...

Reassemble, and submit S200KYS for a re-test, and passed... all history now, but as said at the top of this post, re-posted for the integrity of the build / use thread... and might help someone out there one day?

All easy fixes then.

Errr, apart from having to cut a wheel nut off? :blink:

Thanks for persevering with the posting, it was worth it in the end!

And thank YOU for persevering with fixing the attachments issue

Another donation to your fine forum fund coming soon (as soon as I sell something!)

Dave

Simple as in not having to do that with an alloy wheel with a recessed nut!

It was either that - cut the nut in half as much as possible and then attack it with a cold chisel - or weld it on from the back which is what I did on the other one that went, but that's only possible with a disk brake conversion, if the shaft's flange was in a drum brake I'd have had no option but to cut the nut off... God knows what you'd do with a recessed nut in an alloy wheel if the splines went and the nut and stud turned?!...

Needless to say I'll be welding the studs to the flange of the other TG HD shaft when it's next out...

One of my mentors showed me a trick. Get an old socket of the appropriate size and a good twist drill that is a snug fit through the square of the socket an use it as a centric guide to start drilling the stud then once started use a slightly under size bit to go through the stud. Then the nut shouldn't be difficult to snap off with a long extension bar on the socket.