Correct Lamda Sensor for a 2005 VVT M13A Jimny

My Jimny failed it's emissions on the MOT. I wasn't getting a fault code, but my CO levels were far too high.  I bought O2 sensors from eBay, one pre cat and onefor post cat. My Jimny is 2007 M13 VVT.  It passed the MOT with minimal emissions on the retest.

I'm on my phone, so these pics are best I can do for now. Sorry.

Also, I forgot to mention. Prior to replacing the O2 sensors the first cold start of the motor it didn't start. Second turn of the key it would start.  The engine revved high for a few minutes until warm.  But after replacing the O2 sensors, the motor started first time.  Also it didn't rev as high or for as long on first start after the new sensors were fitted.  Engine is back running how it should be now.

wrote:

My Jimny failed it's emissions on the MOT. I wasn't getting a fault code, but my CO levels were far too high.  I bought O2 sensors from eBay, one pre cat and onefor post cat. My Jimny is 2007 M13 VVT.  It passed the MOT with minimal emissions on the retest.

I'm on my phone, so these pics are best I can do for now. Sorry.

Hi Mike,

Why did you buy 2 different type?

The vehicle needs either a pre cat or post cat sensor (depends on where the sensor is located relative to the catalyc converter)

I take it you fitted the 'correct one based on the location of your sensor which I guess in your case was the pre cat?

Yep, based on position one on the exhaust manifold and one at the cat. They were both listed for Jimny.  Seems to be working fine for me so far.  I don't have my emissions report at hand, but the figures are good. It's just an O2 sensor and easy to swap out If there's a problem.

sorry for late reply and not being able to use the quote function anymore.
My daughters Swift with a non VVT m13a just got a new sensor 2 after the cat yesterday. has been a check engine light on it for a while saying the cat has low efficiency, P0420 fault code.
And like the jimny with a similar fault code, no malfunction with the car at all. running smoothly and great now, but problem occured after it had a broken coil. could be a coinsidence.
I yet again found a sensor from another suzuki to fit, and now there is no fault code. I might find the suzuki part number if that is any help? I think I still got the box.

This time i do not know what suzuki the sensor should fit i am afraid..
I kind of got this deal thru the suzuki club to buy all the parts from the suzuki warehouse that was obsolete that they were going to throw out to make room for the EV-parts. For an insane price.
So i bought all the sensors they had.
 

I have fiddled with the connectors, unplugging then plugging back, checked air filter etc. Did all this very carefully so nothing got damaged. I'm not sure whether this has triggered the sensors or not but 'managed' to create three DTCs...at least I have something this time!

Some progress. I've cleared all DTCs with the scanning tool, then checked and cleaned the PCV valve as suggested. I have not yet cleaned the IAC valve as the weather was not great. The Suzuki repair manual lists all steps how to remove the IAC valve. Starts with: Disconnect negative battery terminal. Drain engine coolant. Release pressure from fuel system. Disconnect hoses and sensors. Remove throttle body (incuding the IAC valve) then separate IAC valve...on top of this the rubber O-ring is not reusable. That's great. So I've ordered a new IAC valve with new seal.
As a desperate attempt to find out what's wrong I was playing with the accelerator pedal to see how the engine reacts. After 15-20 minutes of running I noticed that the idle RPM randomly went low then surged. Turned out just run out of fuel.. Added 5l of fresh 99 octane petrol then fired up no problem. I reved the engine again a few times and each time the idle RPM dropped a bit. Eventually the engine has settled on 950 RPM! It's still higher then normal but much better than before.
Could this be the a sign of dirty IAC valve?
Is it possible to simply remove the IAC valve (undo 4 bolts, disconnect wire connector and disconnect 2 hoses) without draining coolant and removing throttle body? 

Progress.

I haven't taken the IAC off mine, so can't advise if you need to drain the coolant, perhaps a Google search to see if anyone does it without?

However, the coolant is easy to drain, there is a plastic drain on the bottom of the radiator and since the IAC will be near the top, I doubt you will need to drain very much out.

I took my radiator out [twice] when changing the crank drive belt pulley, it's a quick job.

Robin

Well, it's been 7 months since I was here. During these month I was not able to investigate the cause of idling problems of my M13A engine. All I could do recently is removing and cleaning the throttle body and the IAC valve as suggested.
Despite of a thorough clean there is no improvement. I run out of ideas. Looks like it's not going to be running for the rest of the year. Photos before cleaning.

Thanks again DrRobin for sending that link in November last year. It will be my guide.
suzukijimny.automotive-manuals.com/S8R70A1124010.html 
Here is the list of things I need to check:
 
Seems endless, but I'm not in a rush.

The inlet side of the throttle body look reasonably clean, but the engine side has a lot of deposits on it, unless this is the before picture?

You might find these deposits are causing the butterfly valve to stick. That would explain the uneven idle but not the fault codes.

Robin