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Am I to assume that if you remove the brake disc you gain access to the bolts that mount the knuckle spindle to the steering knuckle and that removal of these bolts will enable you to remove the knuckle spindle and the axle hub as a unit?
In order to replace the inner axle oil seal you have to remove the cv joint and half shafts. This is not possible without removing the steering knuckle which in turn is not possible without removing the kingpins and bearings. It is possible to do this with the abs sensor in place with care but the rest of the brakes have to be removed too. With practice this is possible on both sides of the car in a morning and 2 cups of tea.
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
The original question regards the inner oil seal and suspects it was damaged in the process of repairing the kingpin bearings. The inner oil seal runs on the half shaft inboard of the cv joint therefore it is physically impossible to replace the inner oil seal with removing the half shafts. This does not include disturbing the wheel bearings or stub shafts beyond removing the steering knuckle assembly as a whole. It does not require the special hub nut tool.
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
Here you go.
I have assumed that on ABS models the sensor ring prevents access to the bolts that holt the stuib axle on, but I've never done one to know for sure. If not the hub nut tool is not necessary.
Not 100% sure which four bolts you mean but there are 4 bolts behind the disc which can be accessed with a spanner. However they are often corroded in place. Far simpler to undo the king pin bearings and take the whole this off as a whole unit
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Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Having recently swapped a few front diffs around, and then repeated the process to replace non genuine halfshaft seals with genuine, I found the method in my video above far quicker and easier than removing the kingpins. I'm familiar with both methods. On my non-ABS Jimnys acess to remove corroded bolts with a chisel was fine. They are the same as the prop bolts if you need spares.
So you are splitting the front off the knuckle? Sounds like an easy way to get contamination in the wheel bearings to me, I would prefer to take the knuckle off whole if I could. Also it means that all nuts and bolts are accessible with rattle guns and 6 point sockets.
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
If you want to call it that, yes. I'd call it the stub axle. I'm not sure how it would lead to contaminating the wheel bearing unless you were to store the removed pieces in a puddle? It saves a lot of faff with tiny swivel seal bolts and the bottom kingpin bearing falling out. Everything comes off in small manageable pieces. When changing a diff it saves a lot of time, same for if you ever need to replace a CV joint.
I've done my fair share of king pin bearings so I'm not green to this! There's more than one way to skin a cat.
A picture is worth a thousand words, so thank you Busta.
The comment re: contamination of the wheel bearing is odd as the axle hub, which contains the bearing, has not been disturbed from it's position on the knuckle spindle. As the vacuum cover/flange is only removed to access and remove the CV joint retaining circlip, it could have been replaced immediately after the circlip had been removed obviating the chance of contamination getting in during further work.
The picture shows cut outs on the axle hub which would allow a socket to be used to loosen the 4x14 mm bolts that secure the knuckle spindle to the steering knuckle.
Some people may feel that I have been pedantic in my questioning of procedure but there are reasons. If access to the 4 bolts is not possible with a socket but only a spanner, then the correct torque setting on re-fix cannot be applied. Also if the whole unit is removed by stripping out the king pins, then the chance of damage to the new oil seal is greater as you will not be able to enter the half shaft into the axle casing at the correct angle. Again you might feel that I am being fussy but I work on the basis "do it once, do it right".
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