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4WD light

  • Awiz
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25 Sep 2017 20:20 #184494 by Awiz
4WD light was created by Awiz
I kind of hate to start yet another topic on this subject.. But I just didn't find a case similar to mine despite googling. The jimny is a 2001 model, stick operated transfer case obviously, 4WD and 4WD low work well.. I tested it today, jacked each front tyre up in the air one at a time, both turn freely when in 2WD, both unable to turn when switching to 4WD. 4WD light does not work, doesn't flash. Then there's the weird part in my opinion, there's no 'click clack' sound coming from the hubs when going from 2wd to 4wd or the other way.

I took apart the plastic connector with blue and black/blue wires going to the transfer case, connected the pins using a piece of wire, no 4wd light. Tried measuring between the pin of the blue wire and earth, voltage not even close to 12V, it was like 0,03V. I'm not sure about the connection of the volt meter's negative wire though.. The jimny's been treated to prevent rust, maybe I should've taken one bolt off somewhere and put the wire in the thread..? I used an old car battery's negative terminal, should that do the trick?

TL;DR: 4WD works, 4WD light doesn't. No click clack sounds when going from 2WD <-> 4WD.

Any ideas? Would you take the hubs apart and give them a thorough clean or something like that? What about the 4WD controller..?

Attached a picture of shorting the plastic-covered connector's wires, that's correct? Lousy quality, sorry.
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  • Lambert
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26 Sep 2017 04:17 #184499 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic 4WD light
It sounds like you have found someone else's fix for no 4x4. It sounds like someone has fixed the hubs permanently locked then removed the bulb from the dash light. When you had the car in the air and the selector in 2wd was the front propshaft turni with the wheel? It should have been if someone has locked the hubs. In factory spec the front wheels are disconnected from the drive in two places, the hub and internally in the transfer box. It is possible to run with only one disconnect point in the system by locking up the hubs and relying solely on the transfer box. This isn't as efficient because the front wheels are constantly spinning the halfshafts diff and prop which does induce additional wear and increases rolling resistance, but it removes the notoriously fragile vacuum system. As for measuring the voltage the negative terminal you mentioned, it was attached to the cars circuit? If not it would never work, there needs to be a path for the angry pixies to travel round to give a reading on the meter.

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  • Awiz
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26 Sep 2017 10:54 #184515 by Awiz
Replied by Awiz on topic 4WD light
A good idea, but because I've known this car since new, I know no modifications such as fixing the hubs have been done. I didn't take a look at the prop shaft when turning the wheel, guess I'll check it later this week. And I'll do a proper test on the voltage at that connector under the car..

Is it possible that the hubs have got stuck, even if 4WD has been used frequently? Then it would be the case that you mentioned, drive to front wheels only disconnects at transfer case(?) when going back to 2WD.

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  • Riccy
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26 Sep 2017 20:46 #184539 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic 4WD light
The connector on the transfer box which switches to tell it if in 4x4 or not uses negative switching (i.e. one of the two wires will be connected to ground and the other to the 4x4 controller). If using a voltmeter on 12v DC range you wont detect a voltage to negative.

to test if the switch in the t-box works:
Set multimeter to 'continuity' setting (ohms/resistance if no other option). put meter probes onto the two terminals of the t-box and get someone to select or deselect 4x4. it will have continuity across the terminals if in 4x4, no continuity if not.

to test if the wiring works:
disconnect battery. set multimeter to continuity as above. test for continuity between negative of the vehicle (body metalwork) and one of the wires. the other will be the one that goes to the 4x4 controller. short the wires out and see what happens when you put the battery back on and turn on ignition.

be careful what you are doing though. its easy to blow up a multimeter if you have it on the wrong setting, or lead yourself down the wrong path with a non existent problem!

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  • Awiz
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26 Sep 2017 21:23 - 26 Sep 2017 21:24 #184541 by Awiz
Replied by Awiz on topic 4WD light

Riccy wrote: to test if the switch in the t-box works:
Set multimeter to 'continuity' setting (ohms/resistance if no other option). put meter probes onto the two terminals of the t-box and get someone to select or deselect 4x4. it will have continuity across the terminals if in 4x4, no continuity if not.


So, there are the black and blue/black wires going to the transfer case. I pull the connector apart and put the probes to the terminals on which half of the connector? The one leading to the transfer case, or up the car's body?

Riccy wrote: to test if the wiring works:
disconnect battery. set multimeter to continuity as above. test for continuity between negative of the vehicle (body metalwork) and one of the wires. the other will be the one that goes to the 4x4 controller. short the wires out and see what happens when you put the battery back on and turn on ignition.

be careful what you are doing though. its easy to blow up a multimeter if you have it on the wrong setting, or lead yourself down the wrong path with a non existent problem!


Sorry.. continuity between the vehicle's body and just either of the black or blue/black wires? At the connector which leads up the vehicle's body right? Then short those 2 wires together while the multimeter is still hooked up, and turn the ingition on? :huh: sorry i'm terrible at this..

Currently not at the garage, will try some stuff out probably on thursday or friday.
Last edit: 26 Sep 2017 21:24 by Awiz.

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