4WD light
- Awiz
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I took apart the plastic connector with blue and black/blue wires going to the transfer case, connected the pins using a piece of wire, no 4wd light. Tried measuring between the pin of the blue wire and earth, voltage not even close to 12V, it was like 0,03V. I'm not sure about the connection of the volt meter's negative wire though.. The jimny's been treated to prevent rust, maybe I should've taken one bolt off somewhere and put the wire in the thread..? I used an old car battery's negative terminal, should that do the trick?
TL;DR: 4WD works, 4WD light doesn't. No click clack sounds when going from 2WD <-> 4WD.
Any ideas? Would you take the hubs apart and give them a thorough clean or something like that? What about the 4WD controller..?
Attached a picture of shorting the plastic-covered connector's wires, that's correct? Lousy quality, sorry.
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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- Awiz
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Is it possible that the hubs have got stuck, even if 4WD has been used frequently? Then it would be the case that you mentioned, drive to front wheels only disconnects at transfer case(?) when going back to 2WD.
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to test if the switch in the t-box works:
Set multimeter to 'continuity' setting (ohms/resistance if no other option). put meter probes onto the two terminals of the t-box and get someone to select or deselect 4x4. it will have continuity across the terminals if in 4x4, no continuity if not.
to test if the wiring works:
disconnect battery. set multimeter to continuity as above. test for continuity between negative of the vehicle (body metalwork) and one of the wires. the other will be the one that goes to the 4x4 controller. short the wires out and see what happens when you put the battery back on and turn on ignition.
be careful what you are doing though. its easy to blow up a multimeter if you have it on the wrong setting, or lead yourself down the wrong path with a non existent problem!
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- Awiz
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Riccy wrote: to test if the switch in the t-box works:
Set multimeter to 'continuity' setting (ohms/resistance if no other option). put meter probes onto the two terminals of the t-box and get someone to select or deselect 4x4. it will have continuity across the terminals if in 4x4, no continuity if not.
So, there are the black and blue/black wires going to the transfer case. I pull the connector apart and put the probes to the terminals on which half of the connector? The one leading to the transfer case, or up the car's body?
Riccy wrote: to test if the wiring works:
disconnect battery. set multimeter to continuity as above. test for continuity between negative of the vehicle (body metalwork) and one of the wires. the other will be the one that goes to the 4x4 controller. short the wires out and see what happens when you put the battery back on and turn on ignition.
be careful what you are doing though. its easy to blow up a multimeter if you have it on the wrong setting, or lead yourself down the wrong path with a non existent problem!
Sorry.. continuity between the vehicle's body and just either of the black or blue/black wires? At the connector which leads up the vehicle's body right? Then short those 2 wires together while the multimeter is still hooked up, and turn the ingition on? sorry i'm terrible at this..
Currently not at the garage, will try some stuff out probably on thursday or friday.
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