2019 Jimny Rust Prevention

Really a week done job!

Leaning underneath the super Jimny I can notice some rusty points, especially on the end of the black arms of suspensions, making me thinking that it could be smart do the same treatment...

I will follow this discussion with attention...

Heck that's a job well done.
Perfect time to protect the underside when new, it should last a life time.
Your actions make sense to me, I personally have not seen anything that makes me think the G4 is any better protected than the outgoing G3 it replaced. Hopefully Suzuki have designed out some of the old rot traps, but it was lack of protection inside some of these box sections that was the G3 killer.
Once you have some wax in these sections you have it covered, well worth the effort and cost in my opinion.
Mike

It's been a couple of days since I finished Part 1 of the undersealing project. I washed the car today and thought I'd share a couple of images of just how hydrophobic the BILT HAMBER UB really is. The coating is fully touch dry after 24 hours, water beads off it like a ducks back

Really beatiful!
And it must be a proper investment as well!

For comparesence my 2005 jimny was undercoated when new like all suzukis in Norway (most years). and when I bought it had just been freshed up, but only the body. dunno why they didn't do the axles and all. mostly brownish colour now but body still fine eight or so years after.
Jimny prices here in norway are now not so much connected to milage or year model but condition. if its a rusted 1999 it is around 500-1500£ but in good condition 5000 to 8000£. Jimnys in norway is 1999, 2004, 2005-09 models. allmost no other years.

As a price and investment profitabilty comparison, my 2006 VW T5 transporter was also treated when new, but when I bought it 2010 I had it treated again, if i convert the NOK price it cost me ~900£ and last year I did the lower edges on the body and repainted much of the car. cost me ~1100£. But now the car is 99% rust free.
All money well spent as the car is still worth well over 20000£ crazy for a 15 year old car but that is the prices here.

Your car will still be here in 20 or 30 years, I would bet on it!
After all petrol cars are banned, yours will be the one in the museum to show the kids how we drove around in the twenties

Hi Looks great,
I'm about to do the same. How many cans of each do you think you'll need in all?

Thanks

Hi Ynmij,
To achieve what's been photographed:

I used 1 x full tin of Buzzweld Chassis CIO. 1 x full tin of Bilt Hamber UB.

As you can see, I managed to get two good coats on the axle housings and running gear. But I've ordered another tin to complete the chassis & body mounts, along with 2 x tins of DYNAX S-50 (cavity wax) to protect inside the box section.

So to do a proper full underside job:

1 x Buzz weld
2 x Dynax UB
2 x Dynax S-50

All in cost about £100. Worth every penny as it'll keep mr rust away for a while. I'll probably keep a spare tin of UB in the garage for any future touch ups.

That's great thanks Dagzook, I'll get it ordered.

I always thought that the rust is mainly due to aggressive salt on roads. Well, Look at my Jimny, manufactured in March 2020, driven in Australia for few weeks with less than 400km on odometer. No serious offroad (about 2km on unsealed road and grass area on farm), No offroad on beaches, No salt on roads...
On protected surfaces, everything is fine so far. However, it seems that there are several surfaces which are not protected at all (e.g. every radius arm has protected only one side, while the other side is unprotected and already quite rusty)

Is this normal?
My other cars (Holden Barina + Holden Commodore) are over 10 years old and have probably less rust than this!

Hi Vercernik,

Those areas you've photographed are bare metal areas. The JIM left the factory like that, so yes light surface corrosion at exposure moisture within the first 2k miles would result in light surface corrosion.

Nothing that a cheap tin of Wax oil won't resolve.

This is a really good explanation behind the science of rust:

opentextbc.ca/chemistry/chapter/17-6-corrosion

In layman's terms, Rust will form on ferrous metals when there is a presence of oxygen, H20 (water) and iron (within the steel). The speed of the chemical reaction when only Oxygen, H20 and Iron are involved is quite slow.

BUT with the introduction of electrolytes i.e (our good friend ROAD SALT), the chemical reaction is supercharged. Hence why us Brits in the UK suffer terribly over the winter months, our roads are heavily gritted.

Found the dreaded orange stuff on a chassis drain hole.
One can of S-50 is enough to do both sides.
The 2 foot lance is a must. Not happy its only 6 moths old.

Thanks Grima! damn I've bought two tins. I'll have some left over for a second application then.

I got two of the 360 degree nozzles from opie oils. 600mm should be more than long enough to get from one drain hole to the next.

I'm sure by doing this you've kept Mr rust at bay.

As you can see its a messy job. Its like black water then sets to a wax. There are drain holes all along the chassis so there is no problem getting access. The lance 4 way nozzle is a brilliant idea. Just insert spray & pull out slowly. Only took 15 mins to do. Well worth £20.