Turbo Jimny

11/60 wrote: Nooooooo the orange vents.have gone! Boo hiss.

I can only apologise

Decided to put the 6 speed lexus box in the scrap pile today..I can live with 5...only have one or two projects before my next jimny related one.

Clearing some space in the shop over the next few weeks so I can fit more stuff in.

Would it be possible to install a turbo on a G13bb without altering fueling? As in, aftermarket ecu etc

I've been thinking of this, then found your post, and it's brilliant to see someone who's done it!

I thought I could make my own manifold, get a turbo of something small engined, I was thinking 1.6hdi type turbo, which I think is similar to the 1544 you've gone for.

Manifold made myself, second hand turbo, used intercooler and pipework, should be a very cheap way of some extra ponies

Obviously more air would mean more fuel necessary, but would the standard ECU be able to compensate and be sufficient for a low boost setup?

I only ask, ask mechanically I'm mildly capable, but the whole altering fueling and mapping, I am not. And it would keep it cheaper if I didn't have to.

I saw a thread on difflock where someone fitted a turbo and only other thing he fitted was a rising rate fuel pressure regulator....With a 1:1 fpr it only injects the same amount of fuel so I can't see how that works...and have'nt got round to asking him how it gives more fuel.

Have a look for dwr I think online....who sell a "complete" kit for the G13B

Sadly I could'nt figure a way around the fuelling so had to do it the ECU way.

Talk appears now and then regarding remapping the original ecu but never a mounts to anything.

I was beaten through the lights this morning.....I need teaction control next ::
Megasquirt is the way I went....very happy with it.

Right OK, so definitely a no go without altering fueling? As in it can't figure it out itself using the MAF/MAP or something?

I'll search those people you mentioned

Standard jimny map/ecu has no idea what to do with pressure Tom....I did toy with "lying" to the ecu with a resistor engaged by a pressure switch to tell it to put the choke on....Not controllable so went with the megasquirt....If you like soldering you could do it a lot cheaper than I did.....but I don't see too good at close range.......Possibly you could control the whole thing for under £400 by getting it in kit form from diyautotune.com.....i bought mine from Phil Ringwood at extraefi.co.uk

Beware the 14.7 wideband lambda controller.....mine fell apart due to the housing being made on a 3d printer.....if I'd known that's what it was made of I'd have been more gentle with it.....It got replaced by an Innovate mtx....fantastic piece of kit!

Any questions on the installation just ask away.

Tom1357 wrote: but would the standard ECU be able to compensate and be sufficient for a low boost setup?

No once the ECU sees the pressure go above the initial barometric pressure reading it'll start to raise the baro reading, once that goes outside the preset diagnostic limits then the ECU will fall into limp-mode.

Rhinoman wrote:

Tom1357 wrote: but would the standard ECU be able to compensate and be sufficient for a low boost setup?

No once the ECU sees the pressure go above the initial barometric pressure reading it'll start to raise the baro reading, once that goes outside the preset diagnostic limits then the ECU will fall into limp-mode.

Not sure it had a limp mode Rhinoman.....the CEL was a constant addition whenever it saw boost but I never noticed any change in performance....so much so that I had a permanent resetter installed

I'm going to call the mod a success as it's been fine since installation....not blown up or melted.

It has many fail safe modes. I would hazard a guess that the fault code was for the MAP sensor from which barometric pressure is derived. It'll default to a TPS/RPM based algorithm which is set quite rich so that probably helps on boost.

Correction....I knew I'd spoken too soon!

It threw a conrod Monday......it's a 1.6 M16A turbo now......video of the failure and some pictures to come later.

Failed at 89.907 miles....got the new engine from Supergaz Monday night and finished the swap over tonight.

First drive of it in the morning....

Keith,

Any indication as to the location of the failure of the rod?

we had a quick chat at work on hearing about the failure, and reckon a likely contender is a big end bolt, which if it is, is probably not due to the turbocharging, as big ends fail in tension (high revs) rather than compression (big bangs). of course the rod could simply have buckled and failed under the additional power, but I doubt it, as it wasn't that much of an increase was it?

Paul.

Post mortem tonight.....not a big end....I can see the bolts are still there.

I think a valve started it.....my guess for now (spark plug is flattened but not really looked deeper...busy swapping the engine)