diff guards

Yes it may

markyp2000 wrote: Yes it may

not the answer I was hoping for will it definately leak or is it just a might leak?

what oil do I put in the diffs?

jonesyba420 wrote:

markyp2000 wrote: Yes it may

not the answer I was hoping for will it definately leak or is it just a might leak?

what oil do I put in the diffs?

When I fitted my rear diff guard I was lucky, I removed the bolts and refitted them through the guard without provoking a leak. I suppose it depends how good the seal is in the first place.

Ian.

So it may or may not leak but what oil do I use if it does leak?

I used ep 75/90 most decent motor spairs keep it

A few thoughts. If you've seen the thread I started, you'll know I don't yet own a Jimny (quite), so this is based on Defender experience and general principles.

The weak spot looks like it's the pressed steel(?) diff cover, same as the Landy front diff. Bash it hard enough and it dents or worse.

I'd say to go with a bolt-on rather than weld-on guard because welding to the diff case, even with the oil drained, means welding to a potential bomb unless the diff is stripped and everything's properly degreased. Even drained there's still the risk of it going bang. If it's got oil in it, then you'd be asking for a face full of napalm.

There's also the risk of warping the thing due to the welding heat and expansion/contraction. Same risk if welding anything to the axle tubes. The tube will try and bend towards each weld as the weld cools off so lots of care needed.

One thing to watch is that the diff guard doesn't fill with trapped mud or water between it and the diff cover or the diff cover can corrode pretty quickly. Plenty of dinitrol/wax oil on the cover helps prevent that, as does a Land Rover factory-fitted oil leak.

Anything that hangs off the diff casing bolts must stand a chance of damaging the diff case or axle - a guard that transfers any pressure or impact into the diff/axle case and bends it might be worse than no guard at all.