lightweight buggy

Lots of shiny bits. It's so much nicer working on parts that are properly clean.

As far as the transfer box idea is concerned, I can't see why it would not work. However as you are playing around with chains it may be easier to simply double up the output of one transfer case using a couple of sprockets and some chain. You wouldn't be able to independently select each rear axle but I don't really see that being particularly useful.

wrote:

That’s it… I’m beat :lol:

no not really,  im at the easy stage just clean paint and reassemble  not much fabrication going on at present,  once i get the drive train finished  it will slow up  bending tube for the roll cage etc
 

wrote:

Lots of shiny bits. It's so much nicer working on parts that are properly clean.

As far as the transfer box idea is concerned, I can't see why it would not work. However as you are playing around with chains it may be easier to simply double up the output of one transfer case using a couple of sprockets and some chain. You wouldn't be able to independently select each rear axle but I don't really see that being particularly useful.

yes good thinking why carry a second transferbox around when i dont have too,  the bit i dont like about this method  is having to grind off the spring perches/shock mounts etc   so i can flip the rearmost axle upside down awful job that lol,

the drive through diff seems the least work ?,    i have a couple of sj axles kicking around  the place  maybe as a side project i will try and make a drive through axle  just to see if it works 


 

so im not sure if i am going to use this metro engine or not,   i chose it because it was light and it was free,  being free isent really the best criteria for choosing it but hey ho

now what im after is a very low bonnet line to enable me to have the shape buggy that is floating around in my head

ive reduced the bonnet line by a fair amount but i would like more if possible.  on a standard jimny it seems to measure 19" from the top of the shock absorber to the base of the windscreen,

    moving my engine back and down has reduced that to 9"

10 "  is great  but now im wondering if i should go back to one of my earlier ideas and use a subaru engine, hopefully its much lower being a flat 4
what i need is a scrap engine to offer up and see how it fits,   if the down pipes fit between the chassis then it might be worth it  if not i dont think i will be any better off,  they do sound cool though due to their unequal length headers  and i could probaly exaggerate that by making some more unequal headers lol,  if i were to use a forrester engine it has a hi/low gearbox before i feed it into the transferbox  giving me the low gearing i desire 

The sight line with the Metro engine looks pretty good to me. I don't know how much you'd gain with a Subaru engine. The wheel arches are likely to be a limiting factor. You also need to be able to squeeze a radiator in there somewhere. You could put the rad in the back. You need to be pretty careful about air flow if you go that route. It also helps to over size the rad. Both my trials car and the Copelander have rear rads.

I personally find being able to see where the front wheels are is more important than being able to see very close directly in front.

the lazy way to install an axle