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Underseal- what's the best?

  • jimy
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31 Aug 2015 17:40 #151054 by jimy
Underseal- what's the best? was created by jimy
Hiya :)
I've been given MOT advisories for slight corrosion on both rear seat belt anchorage areas and both rear suspension spring mounting areas. It's not bad but will probably fail at next year's MOT.
The MOT fella said it was slight and just required rubbing with a steel brush and then re-sealing.
I haven't had a look myself and will have to get a garage to do it for me :ohmy: I Know, but I don't have a garage or ramps or the space to do it myself
So my questions are:

What's the best sealant?
How much will I need for just these areas?

Cheers
Julie

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31 Aug 2015 18:22 #151061 by Daniel30
You can get a can of Waxoil and hammerite from halfraulds for £8.99 I don't know how much if an area you have to do but this will cover quite a bit :)
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31 Aug 2015 19:20 #151070 by jimy
Replied by jimy on topic Underseal- what's the best?
Cheers Daniel :)

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  • philpridd
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31 Aug 2015 19:57 #151081 by philpridd
Replied by philpridd on topic Underseal- what's the best?
in my opinion.wickes hammered paint is better then hammerite,as for underseal,I think tetroysyl is a good product,as it is easier to apply then the waxoyl underseal,and is more durable,its more like the old school type underseal that sets fairly hard.Another paint you could try,which they say sets rock hard,and is very tough,is called por 15.available from frost restoration at rochdale,see their website for details,though it is on the dear side.

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31 Aug 2015 20:22 #151087 by helijohn

jimy wrote:
What's the best sealant?
How much will I need for just these areas?

Cheers
Julie


Best is subjective but I always use Hammerite underseal with added Waxoyl. Used it to do 3 cars in the last few years completely from front to back. My 1992 Pajero still has it on from when I did the same job in 2000. It does take a good few days to lose its tackiness so once applied leave it alone for a week. ;) Any transfer on to your hands etc. is easily removed with petrol.

Check prices and buy it off ebay or Amazon, it can be twice the price in Halfords and so on. ;)

If you have some (small areas) rust and can't shift it entirely (even with a rotary wire brush in a drill or Dremel etc.) you could prep the surface with something like Jenolite but some rust curers require up to 24 hours before over-coating. I tried Aquasteel curer on my Junior just a few months back which requires, and I quote, "A full 24hrs" before over painting. I hated waiting.

I hate the job cos the rust dust and bits get in hair, eyes, ears and other places. :angry:

Do it right - use Hammerite
When the blue light is flashing I am kidding.

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  • hora
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02 Sep 2015 18:30 #151172 by hora
Replied by hora on topic Underseal- what's the best?
What aboit going somewhere that offers a waxoil for you? Any in NWest or WYorks or is it easy to do with a big brush and goggles?

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03 Sep 2015 22:53 #151281 by adamatdraycott
Dinitrol is the stuff you want. It seems to be the preferred treatment in the LR world

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04 Sep 2015 16:59 #151316 by Rhinoman
I'll cast a vote for Hammerite with Waxoyl as well, its good stuff, I find it better than the regular bitumen underseals which can peel. I don't know if the usual Waxoyl places will apply it or just the Waxoyl spray, its worth spraying the insides of the panels and chassis.

Some Suzukis and a bunch of motorcycles.

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04 Sep 2015 17:03 #151317 by Rhinoman

philpridd wrote: in my opinion.wickes hammered paint is better then hammerite


Hammerite with Waxoyl is an underseal rather than a hammered paint.

Some Suzukis and a bunch of motorcycles.

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04 Sep 2015 21:16 #151338 by Johnniehec
Another vote for Dinitrol from me.

On the 8th Day God made the LandRover -
On the 9th day he swapped it for a Jimny.

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04 Sep 2015 22:16 #151341 by Venter
Replied by Venter on topic Underseal- what's the best?
Johnnie, I seem to remember you're up in NE Scotland... Where is there around these parts that will do an underbody seal with the above products?

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05 Sep 2015 11:25 - 05 Sep 2015 11:30 #151357 by facade
Replied by facade on topic Underseal- what's the best?
Mine is smothered in dinitrol, doesn't seem to work.

Over the past 35 years I have tried everything, and once you have rust, nothing stops it*. You have to get all the rust off to bare metal, then etch prime (if you can find any etch primer old stock, the new stuff doesn't etch) paint with good paint, then stone chip or underseal to protect the surface, and waxoyl over that.

The "best" results I get are by wirebrushing/sanding/grinding off the rust, and painting with Aldi anti-corrosion metal paint (poor man's chassis black/smoothrite) Every time I get underneath I attack any rusty streaks/bubbles with a scraper, and daub more on.


I thought I'd found something that might work: Fertan. :woohoo:
I was looking at Gosport submarine musem, and how they conserved the Holland 1, after fishing it out of the water.
Experts treated it with anticorrosion chemical, that I found was Fertan, but it soon went as rusty as old iron and no paint would stick again. So they had another go themselves and soaked it for 4 years in a tank of washing soda. The problem is chloride ions from salt, which obviously came from the sea for Holland 1, but we get them courtesy of "The Council" :S

*Whether I've held it back is debatable, there is no untreated control to check against. Certainly the box sections under the headlights that got a good dosing of dinitrol clear on the inside, and black on the outside, have continued rotting out.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)
Last edit: 05 Sep 2015 11:30 by facade.

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