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MOT and ARB removal

  • mc_nebula
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10 Sep 2014 22:08 #123850 by mc_nebula
Replied by mc_nebula on topic MOT and ARB removal
Likewise, I run without one. Slightly more body roll, and two MOT's passed without it.
As everyone else says, it's supposed to fail without it fitted, but unless you leave droplinks or something hanging around, or the tester knows the car well, how are they to know?

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  • wombat
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10 Sep 2014 22:29 #123851 by wombat
Replied by wombat on topic MOT and ARB removal
if you know and get on with the tester, and problems do arise after the test,"the roll bar was removed after the test " :whistle: cannot be proved otherwise :)

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  • Bits4Vits
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11 Sep 2014 08:10 - 11 Sep 2014 08:12 #123866 by Bits4Vits
Replied by Bits4Vits on topic MOT and ARB removal
Mine passed MOT yesterday with ARB removed... even had a chat with the tester about it... he said it's difficult with a modified vehicle, i.e. to tell what should be there and what shouldn't, he said as long as there's no sign of it - i.e. no brackets left, there's nothing for them to test...

I also explained I will be refitting it soon too, modified with a JimnyBits ARB quick disconnect -



www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/jimny/suspensio...t-kit/prod_1392.html

So that it will be nice on the road, and still flexy off! B)



Just two bolts to undo and it's disconnected... a nice original idea from JimnyBits! B)

Dave
Last edit: 11 Sep 2014 08:12 by Bits4Vits.

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  • GuardianAngel
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11 Sep 2014 09:20 #123868 by GuardianAngel
Replied by GuardianAngel on topic MOT and ARB removal

Bits4Vits wrote: Mine passed MOT yesterday with ARB removed... even had a chat with the tester about it... he said it's difficult with a modified vehicle, i.e. to tell what should be there and what shouldn't, he said as long as there's no sign of it - i.e. no brackets left, there's nothing for them to test...

I also explained I will be refitting it soon too, modified with a JimnyBits ARB quick disconnect -



www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/jimny/suspensio...t-kit/prod_1392.html

So that it will be nice on the road, and still flexy off! B)



Just two bolts to undo and it's disconnected... a nice original idea from JimnyBits! B)

Dave


Now my J was undersealed when the ARB was fitted. I took it off with the brackets but there is an imprint in the underseal so you can see that some was there before. Maybe I need to get scraping :-D

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11 Sep 2014 19:38 #123905 by Rhinoman
Replied by Rhinoman on topic MOT and ARB removal
That quick disconnect looks like its off-centre, in which case its not going to work evenly on both sides when connected.

Some Suzukis and a bunch of motorcycles.

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  • Bits4Vits
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12 Sep 2014 07:59 #123928 by Bits4Vits
Replied by Bits4Vits on topic MOT and ARB removal

Rhinoman wrote: That quick disconnect looks like its off-centre, in which case its not going to work evenly on both sides when connected.


Not with you there... it's not my design though, it's from jimnyBits... but when it's connected it just becomes a "solid bar" ?

And when disconnected the two (unequal) halves will just move independently?

No? :S

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12 Sep 2014 15:10 #123945 by Rhinoman
Replied by Rhinoman on topic MOT and ARB removal
The ARB is actually a torsion bar which is designed to twist along its length so it adds additional spring force to the suspension under cornering. A solid section will reduce its ability to twist, effectively making it stiffer. By having the disconnect in the middle the two sides will have a different amount of 'twist' although both sides should still be twisting so maybe it will be the same amount for both sides. I will be interested to hear how the difference caused by the disconnect affects the handling, theoretically it would give more oversteer.

Some Suzukis and a bunch of motorcycles.

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12 Sep 2014 15:31 #123946 by facade
Replied by facade on topic MOT and ARB removal
Looking at the photo, the actual torsion bar is equal length each side, (and very short).

I imagine that the large diameter tube has a pivot axle along the centreline, an arm on each half of the tube can be pegged together, then the two piece tube becomes one solid bar.

The weld/crimp whatever marks look the same distance from the ends of each torsion bar.

Don't know why the large tubes are unequal length, must be to clear the drag link or steering damper when fitted.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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  • Bits4Vits
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12 Sep 2014 15:44 #123951 by Bits4Vits
Replied by Bits4Vits on topic MOT and ARB removal
Hmmm... I'll report back when it's fitted and road tested...

Last time we went 'laning with Rus from JImnyBits he was running one on his own Jimny and was very happy with it...

Yes, from what I remember of the instructions the original ARB is cut exactly in half, the tube dsconnect system is then welded over it, so in the photo the stub of one half is under the grease nipple you can see on the top...

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  • bluejimny
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12 Sep 2014 17:09 #123954 by bluejimny
Replied by bluejimny on topic MOT and ARB removal
the ARB is cut directly in the middle so one end slides into the other, so when bolted together acts the same as the original bar, as there is nowhere for the bar to go

ive tested this on both a standard jimny and modd'ed fully loaded jimny and it makes no difference in handling as it wont, ive even turned flat one way at 30 in the modded jimny ..... lots to tyre screeching as you would expect! but all is well

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