33s Rubbing

what about fitting caster corection bushes as the hole is offset from the center and and fit them so the holes are right at the front of the arm instead of at the top and bottom how much do think that would move to forward or make the arms longer get it refabed strong

markyp2000 wrote: what about fitting caster corection bushes as the hole is offset from the center and and fit them so the holes are right at the front of the arm instead of at the top and bottom how much do think that would move to forward or make the arms longer get it refabed strong

Is there enough room in trailing arm "forks" to do that before the axle housing hits on the front side of them? (If that makes any sense... :laugh:)

Nothing will change. He needs to create more space and the only way is to cut some steel .

Is there enough room in trailing arm "forks" to do that before the axle housing hits on the front side of them? (If that makes any sense... :laugh:)[/quote]

Thats what I thought Panosd was referring to as well, but lots of the greek guys have actually moved the mounting points on the chassis by 3cm, which I think will be more straight forward. Just cut it off with a slim cutting disc, move it 3cm forward then reweld it on the chassis leg again?

What do you think.

Also I think this action will affect the castor cos you are effectively rotating the axleback over are you not?

red bit is if you was caster correcting and blue bit should move the axle forward with out upsetting the caster angle fit you get my poor pic lol

Why should the angle change ? , if all that you are doing is making the wheel base longer by 4cm.

Because you are extending one of the pivot points,namely the radius arms and the shocker and spring stay the same and dont move forward at their mount to the car body. So I would have thought this would have the effect of rotating the axle.

but if you move the chassis mounts arnt you doing the same thing the top of the shock and spring will be in the same place weather you move the axle by doing the bush or the mount carnt you sell your front arm and ask rob at ORA to make you some 30mm longer
or cut the chassis end bush off and weld a nut in the end and fit big rose joint/creaper joint that are adjustable

www.offroad-armory.com/store/index.php?r.../category&path=82_87

Why to get to all that un-nessesery job?

By moving your axle forward the spring and shock mounts stay just they are, you dont turn

your axle at all.

Your arms are not comming in touch with the rear steering bar or the axle. Your panar

doesn't come in touch with the axle or springs and shocks.

You dont need to cut and weld back your arms. They will loose their straingh.

What you do is to make a new bracket, cut of the old one and measure from the old

nut hole of the axle bracket 3cm to forward and there should be the new braket hole.

These are the fotos from the car of a friend of mine, extractor , who has just become

member on bigjimny. Take a look

www.off-limits4x4.com/t4p75-topic

If anyone isn't sure about something its better not to go for it. This is a pattent and

whoever goes for it should know that if is not done right then :whistle: :whistle:

Smoggy wrote: Is there enough room in trailing arm "forks" to do that before the axle housing hits on the front side of them? (If that makes any sense... :laugh:)

Thats what I thought Panosd was referring to as well, but lots of the greek guys have actually moved the mounting points on the chassis by 3cm, which I think will be more straight forward. Just cut it off with a slim cutting disc, move it 3cm forward then reweld it on the chassis leg again?

What do you think.[/quote]
That's the easiest way to cut those old brackets off and move them.

But I would personally just cut some room for the tires. After all it really isn't much you have to cut. If I would go for 35" tires, then the axle would have to move some to make things easier. And you have twice the lift I have, so making room for 33s shouldn't be a hard task. And I don't know how's the clearance to the head light buckets on your truck, but that's the first spot where my tires will rub if I remove anti-roll bar, so with the axle moved forwards I can see much more trimming needed up there. But like I said, I don't know how things are with your lift and tires.

I like to keep everything as close to original as possible, because everything works better the way it was originally engineered, so I'd rather cut some sheet metal than go messing with the trailing arms and such!

Thanks for all your inputs guys its really appreciated that I can draw on your wealth of experience. So I am going to go with the original plan of cutting the arch/footwell back as much as is necessary then check for clearance. If it still catches then there is always a plan B of moving the axle. Either way I am happy that now I feel it's not unsurmountable.