×
BigJimnyMeet (North) 2024 (12 Jan 2024)
BigJimnyMeet 2024
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
14th July 2024
Parkwood Nr. Leeds
Booking now open - Discount for additional vehicles
Click HERE for details
Click HERE for details
×
A place for more technical discussions. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.
56 Jimny JLX VVT+ won't start when it stalls
03 Mar 2012 05:07 - 03 Mar 2012 05:08 #34704
by Halford
Replied by Halford on topic Re: 56 Jimny JLX VVT+ won't start when it stalls
Hi newbygirl, welcome to the forum.
how long had you been running when you stalled it and it took a long time to get it restarted ?
I ask, because mine is sometimes a pain to start after a short run or when trying a restart a short time after switching off - probably just down to the temp sensor, the solution if it won't start is simply clutch in and feather the throttle, but if it doesn't start straight away, switch off and try again 10 secs later - don't simply keep trying and pumping the throttle.
Burning rubber is never good - but probably just a short, should be easy to fix
forget borewash - many possible less severe causes for stalling/starting issues ....... here's a few for info (probably taken from Kirkynuts previous posts
).
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, or EGR valve
Rough idle and poor acceleration can be caused by a faulty EGR valve.
If EGR is on during idle, stumble and even stalling will likely result. If EGR is on during hard acceleration, low power (from reduced air/fuel volume) is the result.
If the engine stumbles or stalls at idle or lacks power under load, EGR may be staying on and not shutting off. On the other hand, if the engine is pinking at cruise, EGR may not be turning on to cool down combustion chamber temperatures.
helps reduce harmful emissions by introducing a small amount of exhaust gas, below the throttle plate, into the intake manifold. This has the effect of cooling the combustion chambers, as the incoming exhaust displaces part of the oxygen in the combustion chamber and takes up volume, even though it does not support combustion.
Idle Air Control Valve (IAC).
it's connected to the engine's primary air intake valve (the Throttle Body, or TB) and is responsible for making minor adjustments to engine airflow. While the IAC valve's effect is fairly minimal while the TB valve is open, many engines rely on the IAC for idle or low-speed operation. IAC valve mechanisms can become dirty and clogged.
start-and-stall
the engine will catch and run for a second or two, stutter and die.
If blipping the throttle prolongs engine failure, but doesn't prevent it = IAC
If blipping the throttle results in immediate stalling = fuel-related failure
Deceleration Failure
Lifting your foot off the accelerator, the engine's TB valve completely shuts. In the case of a malfunctioning IAC will starve the engine of air = stalling either while decelerating or after coming to a stop.
Weather Factors
A very cold engine needs more fuel than a warm engine, which is important to know while diagnosing the problem. An obstructed or stuck-shut IAC will result in a rich air-fuel ratio at idle, so the engine will start very easily while cold and then die suddenly after a slight puff of black tail-pipe smoke. A stuck-open IAC might start fine while warm and may continue to run if the engine reaches high-enough RPM.
Intermittent Stalling
An intermittent stalling condition is one in which the vehicle might start fine, act as though it's going to die, idle smoothly and then die completely. Alternatively, the vehicle may run fine most of the time, but stall periodically and then restart with a bit of difficulty. Intermittent stalling almost always indicates a dirty or clogged IAC.
The temp sensor tells the ecu it is at running temp and the ecu adjusts the IAC. If the sensor goes tits up the IAC will fluctuate. First case is disconnect the IAC plug and if it settles at around 1400rpm you can more or less guarantee it's the temp sensor.
how long had you been running when you stalled it and it took a long time to get it restarted ?
I ask, because mine is sometimes a pain to start after a short run or when trying a restart a short time after switching off - probably just down to the temp sensor, the solution if it won't start is simply clutch in and feather the throttle, but if it doesn't start straight away, switch off and try again 10 secs later - don't simply keep trying and pumping the throttle.
Burning rubber is never good - but probably just a short, should be easy to fix
forget borewash - many possible less severe causes for stalling/starting issues ....... here's a few for info (probably taken from Kirkynuts previous posts
).The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, or EGR valve
Rough idle and poor acceleration can be caused by a faulty EGR valve.
If EGR is on during idle, stumble and even stalling will likely result. If EGR is on during hard acceleration, low power (from reduced air/fuel volume) is the result.
If the engine stumbles or stalls at idle or lacks power under load, EGR may be staying on and not shutting off. On the other hand, if the engine is pinking at cruise, EGR may not be turning on to cool down combustion chamber temperatures.
helps reduce harmful emissions by introducing a small amount of exhaust gas, below the throttle plate, into the intake manifold. This has the effect of cooling the combustion chambers, as the incoming exhaust displaces part of the oxygen in the combustion chamber and takes up volume, even though it does not support combustion.
Idle Air Control Valve (IAC).
it's connected to the engine's primary air intake valve (the Throttle Body, or TB) and is responsible for making minor adjustments to engine airflow. While the IAC valve's effect is fairly minimal while the TB valve is open, many engines rely on the IAC for idle or low-speed operation. IAC valve mechanisms can become dirty and clogged.
start-and-stall
the engine will catch and run for a second or two, stutter and die.
If blipping the throttle prolongs engine failure, but doesn't prevent it = IAC
If blipping the throttle results in immediate stalling = fuel-related failure
Deceleration Failure
Lifting your foot off the accelerator, the engine's TB valve completely shuts. In the case of a malfunctioning IAC will starve the engine of air = stalling either while decelerating or after coming to a stop.
Weather Factors
A very cold engine needs more fuel than a warm engine, which is important to know while diagnosing the problem. An obstructed or stuck-shut IAC will result in a rich air-fuel ratio at idle, so the engine will start very easily while cold and then die suddenly after a slight puff of black tail-pipe smoke. A stuck-open IAC might start fine while warm and may continue to run if the engine reaches high-enough RPM.
Intermittent Stalling
An intermittent stalling condition is one in which the vehicle might start fine, act as though it's going to die, idle smoothly and then die completely. Alternatively, the vehicle may run fine most of the time, but stall periodically and then restart with a bit of difficulty. Intermittent stalling almost always indicates a dirty or clogged IAC.
The temp sensor tells the ecu it is at running temp and the ecu adjusts the IAC. If the sensor goes tits up the IAC will fluctuate. First case is disconnect the IAC plug and if it settles at around 1400rpm you can more or less guarantee it's the temp sensor.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Time to create page: 0.068 seconds