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wow, that was hard work, anyway, query (again) re vacuum pipes

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12 Apr 2024 11:24 #255539 by rmn
Good afternoon all,

I've had to create a new account as my original didn't seem to want to play and wouldn't allow me to get a new password after I forgot my original one.
Anyway, rant over. I'm in the process of putting some AVM hubs on my 2015 Gen3. No worries about the mechanical side of installation, I've even sourced a long E10 socket. However, I remain confused / slightly anxious with regard to the vacuum pipes and the electrical side of things. I know there have been numerous threads about this of late, and I have viewed numerous You-tube explainations. However, much of this is either contradictionary or uses terms which mean nothing to me. So, what is the most straight forward method of modifying the pipes and electrics so it doesn't flash at me once I have installed the hubs?

many thanks,

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  • rogerzilla
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12 Apr 2024 15:27 #255540 by rogerzilla
As I understand it, you simply plug the vacuum connections to the hubs where they emerge from the solenoid valves under the battery tray.  The system sees a vacuum and is happy, so the electronic actuators at the transfer box do their thing.

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12 Apr 2024 16:21 #255541 by DrRobin
This is what I did when I fitted manual hubs to my Gen 3.

Leave all of the vacuum pipes connected at the hubs to stop water/dust from getting in. Then by the side and slightly lower than the battery there is two solenoids which apply and release the vacuum. One of these has a T piece in it and goes to a pressure switch.

If the vacuum and switch are ok, just remove the flexible pipe and plug either the pipe or T piece so that the switch is still made when the vacuum is applied.

Or, if the vacuum has failed, disconnect the switch and join the wires.

The BigJimny wiki is the best place to find information and step by step guides, you might find this link useful.

www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php/Man...ront_wheel_hub_heads

Robin

2020 blue SZ5 (one of the last to be registered in the UK)
Ex 2011 Blue Jimny SZ4
Northumberland Jimny Blog

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14 Apr 2024 12:12 #255557 by rmn
Thanks both. The vacumm is still intact so I'll just root out the pipe at the top. Is it acceptable to disconnect the pipe from where it enters the throttle mechanism and plug it?

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14 Apr 2024 16:09 #255562 by DrRobin
No, not on the throttle, that will mess up the engine. The pipe needs to be plugged on the vacuum engage solenoid, it’s just next to the battery and slightly below.

Robin

2020 blue SZ5 (one of the last to be registered in the UK)
Ex 2011 Blue Jimny SZ4
Northumberland Jimny Blog

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15 Apr 2024 11:44 #255581 by rmn
Thanks for the heads up. Sorry to be a bit thick but what does the vacuum engage solenoid look like?

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15 Apr 2024 12:31 #255582 by yakuza
www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php/4WD..._failure_diagnostics
Pictures and very good explanation there. I think I understand how it works after reading.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.

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15 Apr 2024 16:13 #255587 by rmn
So, I see the pipe from manifold to blue check valve. I understand the function of that now and will leave well alone. From check valve the pipe appears to enter a block from which i pipe carries straight on, another goes back parralel with the pipe from check valve, and another off at right angles. In effect the block the check valve pipe goes into has a total of 4 branches off it. Do I blank the pipe that came from the check valve before it hits the 4 way block, or do I have to block one of the others?
Apologies again for making a mountain out of what is probably a mole hill.

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15 Apr 2024 18:04 #255588 by johncar12
I think there is a similar problem in the database, I couldn't log in either.

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