WAXOYL vs UNDERSEAL

Hi guys
I am about to tackle the surface rust underneath at the weekend and once checked and cleaned is it best to Waxoyl or underseal the scabby bits. Or is this best left until the warmer weather as I intend to start using the Jimny.

Doesn't make any difference IMHO, I've tried both and neither work

I seem to have more success removing the rust and daubing with the black Smoothrite copy that you can buy in Aldi for about £7 a litre, called "Metal Paint" or similar

I've found Waxoyl sitting as a nice solid sheet with a layer of water between it and the steel many times. It never seems to do that well in tests. Applying it pretty thinly to pretty clean metal/paint seems to get the best out of it.

Old fashioned thick, bitumen based underseal is OK at sound-deadening but not much else. Once rust starts (and it will) it spreads behind it until a huge area just lifts or falls off revealing the damage. It's also horrible to apply - the DIY spray kits simply don't work, so you need a decent compressor or use spray cans or brush it on (best way in my experience).

The best in most magazine tests (and in my personal exerience) is Dinitrol. The black wax where water, road dirt etc. is likely to be an issue, and the panel wax (the number starts with a 5) for everything else. Both products were originally developed to meet MOD requirements for rust-proofing vehicles that would be immersed in up to 4 feet of sea water. They're not perfect, but in this field nothing is, not even epoxy paint or powder coating applied to sound metal.

If the rust has a hold though you really need to get rid of as much of it as possible first. A key thing with Waxoyl and Dinitrol is to apply it pretty thinly - a thick coat tends not to set properly or to heal itself if scratched.

Unless you've a heated garage I reckon it's way too cold to get anything like worthwhile results at the moment. All these products need to be at room temperature (at least, Waxoyl more unless brushed) to apply. It's also far too cold for rust treatments to work outdoors at the moment as well. The good news is cold weather slows down rust quite a bit.

I would agree with the above regarding application in the warm.
I did my Jimny back in the 'summer' gave the underside a real good power wash first then left it to dry for a few day prior to applying 'waxoyl.

I'm well pleased with the result hth ........

Yes I think your right. its far to cold. I think I will still remove the seat and carpet tomorrow and see what im left with and apply some Hammerite smooth at least this way I can get the electric heater in the car to dry it out a bit before I start. Its the same old story this time of year the weather is crap and its to cold and damp and it gets dark to early to really do any real worth while jobs. And these sort of rust treatment things take a bit of time. Lets hope no welding needs doing.

Sounds like a plan, I also splashed a bit of 'Hammerite' around underneath before the Waxoyl ...

jimothy wrote: Yes I think your right. its far to cold. I think I will still remove the seat and carpet tomorrow and see what im left with and apply some Hammerite smooth at least this way I can get the electric heater in the car to dry it out a bit before I start. Its the same old story this time of year the weather is crap and its to cold and damp and it gets dark to early to really do any real worth while jobs. And these sort of rust treatment things take a bit of time. Lets hope no welding needs doing.

I plough on regardless with this plan. Waxoyl (or Dinitrol if you prefer it) in chassis, box sections, sills(very important IMHO) and door cavities. Underseal with added Waxoyl on under car surfaces like outside of the chassis rails, the floors and sill exteriors. Then Hammerite for internal surfaces like the floor at the back and inside the engine bay.

I realise it is hard to stop the rust bug 100% but we have to try. To my mind mechanicals can be sorted but rot spells the end eventually.

Hope this helps.

I will kill mine way before the rust kills it I fix if needed for the mot paint stuff if it needs it ive just found some rust near the rear body mounts and jack tray so mite treat that buy traybacking much more affective than hamerite lol

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationi rate this stuff if you clean of and kill the rust first with rustcure or somthing like that then sparay this over the top can see it coming back my Starlet was done like that 10 years ago and nothing has reoccured

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Dave cc wrote: i rate this stuff if you clean of and kill the rust first with rustcure or somthing like that then sparay this over the top can see it coming back my Starlet was done like that 10 years ago and nothing has reoccured

That's the stuff I have been advocating, underseal with added Waxoyl......you can get brush on too.....it is great stuff.

Do it right, use Hammerite.

What about painting with Hammerite smooth underneath then use the underbody guard with waxoyl after.

jimothy wrote: What about painting with Hammerite smooth underneath then use the underbody guard with waxoyl after.

You can do any combination I guess but TBH, I am a one coat person. lol

Just a thought, if the Hammerite lets go, so does the undereal with it.