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RockLobster Build - Part 3 - Re-assembly

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​This three part article covers my building of a RockLobster 6.5:1 transfer box. The article parts are:

  • Part 1 - Dis-assembly (see HERE)
  • Part 2 - Building the gears (HERE)
  • Part 3 - Re-assembly (this part)

Modifying the Case 

​Before re-assembling the case you may need to create some extra space for the gears (6.5:1 gearsets) the large Counter Gear will foul the case in two places (four actually as the case is in two halves, its the same place on each half.

Install the Counter gears
Insert the counter shaft with bearings

Insert the Counter Shaft along with the thrust bearing and then the needle bearings.

Place the Counter Gears onto the shaft and add the top needle bearing set.

Mark where the rubbing occurs
Check for where the gears foul the case

​Check the clearances and mark up where the metal needs removing.

Drill out breather fitting
Carefully grind away the case

Grind away the metal. Repeat for the other side of the Transfer Case.

I also use breathers on my Diffs and Transmission parts. Therefore whilst the Transfer Box is in bits I added on a breather. Drill out the old breather to a size smaller than the thread required for the new breather.

Screw in breather fitting
Tap a thread into the breather

​Tap a thread into the hole you have drilled.

Then you can screw in the breather pipe connector. Remove the connector whilst you assemble the rest of the case as it will get damaged.

Clean case!

 I then cleaned up the case to remove the metal filings and also lacquered the case to tidy it up.

Setting the gear end float 

The Suzuki manual goes into a long process around setting the end-float of the gears. End float is necessary for the correct operation of the gears and to stop them destroying the case.

There is a simple way of setting the end float that is "Close enough for Government work" as they say. This involves using the existing shims and assembling the case WITHOUT GASKETS. 

Insert the shims
Replacing the shims (get the key in the correct position)

Insert the shims into both the input shaft and output shaft mounts in the case. You can use grease to hold them in place.

Torque up the case bolts
Assemble the gears in position

​Place the gearsets into place and then assemble the case without using the gasket.

With all the bolts done up to the correct torque you should just be able to turn the shafts by hand with a lot of effort, see video below. This is close to the correct setting.

Clearly, if yours is too loose or totally rigid then you need to add new shims or remove shims as appropriate.

Assembling the gears and case

Counter shaft retainer
Counter Shaft O-ring

Using the supplied O-ring, assemble it onto the counter shaft.

Insert the Counter Shaft into position and re-assemble the retainer and bolt. 

Trail Tough oil seal
Input shaft C-clip

If you disassembled the input shaft to change the bearing then re-assemble it and then add in the new oil seal.

Output Shaft oil seal (Rear)
Output shaft oil seal (Front)

​Insert the other oil seals 

Counter Shaft and Thrust bearing
Thrust Bearing

"Glue" the Counter Shaft Thrust bearings in place, in both case parts, with grease .

Top needle bearings
Remember the spacer

​Assemble the needle bearings, spacer and Counter Gears onto the Counter shaft using plenty of grease.

Detent Ball bearing
Detent Spring

​Now replace the 4WD selector rod. First drop in the lower spring and then the lower detent ball bearing.

Shaft in place
Inserting the 4WD selector shaft

​Hold down the bearing using a blade screwdriver and insert the 4WD selector rod until it holds the ball bearing in place.

Assemble Output shaft
Add in centre detent ball bearing

​Add in the centre ball bearing and then assemble the 4WD selector combined with the output gear set into place.

The assembled output shaft and 4WD selector
The assembled gearset

​The pictures show a final look before the gears disappear inside the case

Top spring
Top ball bearing

​Add in the top ball bearing and the spring for the selector mechanism.

Applying sealant
Spring cap

Tighten down the spring cap.

Now to put the case together. A bit of a debate here. The some people use both sealant and a gasket, the some just use the gasket.

I decided to use both. First I applied a temperature and oil proof sealant (great use for a maxed out credit card!)

Bolt tightening
Gasket in place

Put the gasket in place ensuring it is correctly fitted over the locating pins.

Some people then tap the case together. I prefer to gently introduce the halves together and then evenly pull them together using the case bolts. 

Torque it up
Closing the case

Ensure that the case closes evenly and use the bolts in the correct holes.

Torque up the bolts.

Gasket in place
Sealant on input cover

Repeat the procedure for the front cover.

Epoxied into place
Speedo case filled with epoxy

If you are building this for a Jimny, you do not need the speedo cable. I fill the cable mount with epoxy and then epoxy it into place. 

Finished!
4WD switch

​Put in the ball bearing and then re-fit the 4WD switch. Stand back and admire your work.

Shifter Sheet
Admire your work

Before you fit the selector stick, replace the shifter sheet with a new one.

Selector stick
Selector stick

The stick needs bending to fit through the Jimny transmission tunnel (assuming you are following this for a JImny). This is probably custom for each different mounting kit you may use. I got a local blacksmith to heat mine and easily bend it into shape.

​As this is a transfer box build thread, it end here. However if you are building one for a Jimny you will need an appropriate mounting kit, propshafts  and also a speedo conversion kit to complete the install.

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