Quick crankshaft pulley question

DrRobin wrote:

The woodruff probably gets damaged using the 'starter motor' technique, as the rotational force is through the shaft (and key) to the bolt and it's probably the jolt or repeated jolt which damages the key.
 

The woodruff keys get damaged because the crank pulley bolt is improperly torqued, the woodruff key is meant to locate the pulley, not to drive it (withstand the torsional forces) - this is a well known (and well understood problem) with quite a few different engines - Suzuki's G16 engines are one example, Suzuki issued a TSB (4-23 07196) instructing that the bolt be tightened to 130Nm, the previous specification was 110Nm.

Whilst I agree with you about the general purpose of a woodruff key, it's there for location, think about a timing gear and is not meant to provide drive (that would use a splined shaft) why does the flywheel pulley even have a woodruff key, there is no timing to maintain?

I suspect Suzuki put it there to stop the pulley from turning whilst under load, or just possibly to stop the pulley from turning whilst the bolt is torqued and using the special tool.

Robin

DrRobin wrote:

Whilst I agree with you about the general purpose of a woodruff key, it's there for location, think about a timing gear and is not meant to provide drive (that would use a splined shaft) why does the flywheel pulley even have a woodruff key, there is no timing to maintain?

I'm just going to leave this here for you to look at...

And this, well specifically Facades experience, is the reason I have a 1000Nm rattle gun, I refuse to be beaten by a bolt. As for woodruff key use, they only fail under abuse and or neglect. Used within their design parameters and they can happily transmit significant torque quite reliably.

It's been changed now.  The garage said it was pretty easy because the transmission can be locked by removing a cover plate, then torquing the bolt is straightforward.

The old pulley does not look good.

 

It also has a new radiator and tensioner pulley, because there's no point putting 13-year old consumables back on.  The old pulley was apparently not graunchy but had some play.

Rogerzilla wrote:

It's been changed now. 

<snip>

It also has a new radiator and tensioner pulley, because there's no point putting 13-year old consumables back on.  The old pulley was apparently not graunchy but had some play.
 

They all do that Sir!
It is only a single row ball race, there will always be axial play, but not radial play. Grabbing the outer race and rocking/twisting it highlights the axial play.

Never hurts to change it, but they are ££££££ as you now know!

I bought a new one anyway, since it might as well be changed when it's 13 years old and easy to do with the rad out (you try not to take the rad out on an auto because you have the added mess of ATF hoses to deal with; goodness knows how hot ATF gets if running it once through the bottom tank of the radiator actually cools it!