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A common reason for the engine to play up when hot is the crank sensor.
This usually makes the engine stop until the sensor cools down, it affects the rev counter (it reads zero) as there is no signal that the engine is rotating.
Bouncing up to 10,000 rpm (does it even go that high? I don't think even the 600cc would have one that goes to 10,000) maybe an intermittent connection somewhere,
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Crank sensor is certainly likely but coil packs can also develop cracks which open up when hot, causing misfires. In that case warning lights are less likely.
Thanks for the replies.
Crank and cam sensor have been changed new coil packs. Yes 1000 revs.
Code reader says no faults.
It’s a 53 plate Jinny. The cat has been removed.
The light that flashes is the one with the padlock on it.
Thanks for the replies.
Crank and cam sensor have been changed new coil packs. Yes 1000 revs.
Code reader says no faults.
It’s a 53 plate Jinny. The cat has been removed.
The light that flashes is the one with the padlock on it.
The padlock is the immobiliser, are you saying that is starts, gets up to temperature, then the padlock light comes on & the engine then stops? Or are you saying it fires & runs for a few seconds then stops?
The engine runs well until it gets hot. Then the immobiliser light flashes and it won’t Rev. I’ve tried to load a video.
It won’t Rev above 1000 and seems to be misfiring.
The engine runs fine when cold. When it gets to temperature the immobiliser light flashes and it won’t Rev up. It keeps running on tick over no light. When you Rev it the light flashes and and the Rev counter just bounces and the engine misfires
What you are describing sounds exactly like the classic crank sensor failure on the M13a engines (assuming yours is a hard top). You say you've already changed it but I'd recommend visiting it again. I've heard people having issues with the cheaper pattern part sensors even when new.
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