M16a VVT engine swap

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When I was looking at the rav4 tb it was based upon fitting it to the standard Jimny manifold and on the standard Jimny ecu. It looked a pretty straightforward thing because it uses the same TPS sensor for a start and the ICV can be swapped over (I think!, it was a while since I played with it, seem to remember having to clock the sensor around to work maybe). The final ideal would have been to port-n-polish the Jimny inlet manifold as much as possible then adapt to the bigger tb. I did have previous success with the grey jimny using an '04 liana tb, which was slightly bigger than the standard Jimny one and just swapped straight over with no fuss and ran well.

The big problem with the swift inlet is its intake position, which is basically into the bulkhead when mounted inline in a Jimny. It needs adapted or turned around somehow to be any use.

Don't be thinking you cant have a snorkel with ITBs though, I run mine with an enclosed pipercross airbox over the ITBs and connected by silicone tubing to the snorkel. It restricts it by 3hp on the dyno apparently. no big issue and it puts the induction roar right by the drivers window :laugh:


 

Yes, I did see you were fitting it to the jimmy manifold, I'm sure a couple of mm could be reclaimed from that manifold and a slightly larger TB would provide some benefit.  I may have to eventually bite the bullet and get an aftermarket intake manifold, but I have a 2" body lift, so may(or may not) have a little more room to play about with when fitting a throttle body.  I read online that the suzuki swift sport got a 55mm TB in place of the normal 45mm for regular swifts, so If I can get that inlet manifold to fit, I'll be onto a winner, I'm hopeful I could port 2mm around the diameter and get a 60mm TB on there.  It's all just pie in the sky at the minute and might all turn to dust when I actually get parts in my hands.

I was having a look on ebay (cyber scrappy) to see what other TBs were potential candidates and a few off the honda looked promising, hoping that if I see one up close it will confirm whether the original ICV can be bolted on or not.  I think once I'm home, I'll have a look round and see if I can't get one to measure up.

hmm, if I can't keep my motor as suzuki standard as possible, I might be tempted to use bike TBs, I have a couple of 600s in the garage, but I don't think they would be much use, would probably need a 1 or 1.3 litre set. I think I would enjoy the induction sound, unless it imploded my snorkel and crumpled it like a coke can.

wrote:

Forgot to mention...

Big power (for a Jimny) means an awful lot of fuel consumption. Something to think about if you are doing a few miles in it. Ulysses averages about 140 miles to a full tank of fuel (roughly £70 round here currently). Most of that is because of it the extra weight and drag of it modified , big tyres and caged, but you will find running on the standard ECU isn't as much of a drop in MPG as my sort of fully tuned setup.
I would be interested to know how Sniper is getting on with MPG after his recent mods... I suspect it will be similar to mine

I'm not too fussed about the fuel economy, I know I'm going to be taking a hit there, but I do less than 3000 miles a year in the jimny.  Maybe once I see how much a tank eats I may change my mind. Before I lifted by 4", new short bumpers on and put big tyres and steel wheels on, I used to get about 230 miles to a tank, however that was before e10 fuel, those days are gone.  I think I'm just over 200 miles to a tank now with e10 and my current mods, I'd have to check. I'm still looking into speeduino or megasquirt for engine management, but that will be a good bit later on before I consider that, so I'll chalk that up as my fuel saving for now.

It's a shame I don't have the option of using something like cylinder deactivation to save on fuel on a tuned engine, it would probably run like a bag of spanners on two cylinders and shake itself to bits, just don't think there's enough cylinders to deactivate  .

 

I have not had enough "normal" driving time since the ecu install to be able to qualify it, but it is definitely using more fuel. 

I'm only on 30" ish tyres, getting bigger than that has more of an impact from what I've seen. I've got a set of 31's and haven't tried them as yet, I need to get over the desire to thrash about and try them.

Going back to TB's... I think the main flow restriction is in the inlet tract when the 1300 set up is used, bigger TB's can't beat the downstream restrictions and will only go so far.

sniper

Ok, so I've been home for a few days now, but have been out of action with covid for the past few days.  However, I did manage to get a leakdown test done on the new (to me) engine.   All the cylinders are in the green, however the leakage for the cylinders are 1 = 10%, 2=20%, 3=30%, 4=25%. I didn't hear any leakage coming from intake, exhaust manifolds or anywhere else, but I know that more than 10% difference between each cylinder is not ideal, so I think I'll take the head off and have a look at it all.  It's likely to be the piston rings, but I will do some work on the head, mainly inspect the valve guides, if they are good I'll grind the valves if they require it, then perhaps skim the head if it's not quite true and if I get into it, I can port and polish the intakes.  I think if the rings need to be done, I'll have to send the cylinders away to get machined.  But at least it's a start and I know a bit more of what needs to be done.  Might as well get this all done whilst it's out of the jimny and I have a working motor to run around with.

Not much of an update I'm afraid, but I have eventually got the engine in my garage. Took ages to get a stand for it.  Delivery costs were too much on most sellers.  Have a few other jobs taking priority over the engine now, but hope to get started on it sometime soon.  Here's a pic if the engine though 

Hello all 

Been a bit busy lately, but eventually got started with my engine build. Been cleaning up and polishing the cylinder head and wondered if anyone had any tips for getting caked on carbon off of the exhaust valves.  I'm having a nightmare getting them cleaned up.  Also does anyone know if there's a coating/plating on the swift sport engine valves?  I've also noticed marks on the stems of the valves, does this mean they are shot or can they be saved?