Engine rattle on load / acceleration -Mostly solved!

Riccy wrote: Which throttle body are you using? My 2010 swift vvt engine had electronic throttle body so i bought a 2004 liana body, which bolted straight on and appears identical to the original m13vvt one, except is slightly larger bore. Runs really sweet on bog standard UK unleaded, with occasional go-faster unleaded when im feeling flush ££!

i am using the Jimny TB as the 2008 Liana TB that came with the donor had the same inner diameter.
I'll look into getting a older/bigger TB when ECU / ignition timing issue has been sorted.

I doubt pre-detonation is your problem. Or at least, the Liana doesn't require 98ron fuel so there's no reason why the same engine should in the Jimny. Have you done anything to the timing?
We know the Jimny ecu will run the Liana engine without issues because many people have done it.

Busta wrote: I doubt pre-detonation is your problem. Or at least, the Liana doesn't require 98ron fuel so there's no reason why the same engine should in the Jimny. Have you done anything to the timing?
We know the Jimny ecu will run the Liana engine without issues because many people have done it.

Liana 2008 compression rate (CR) is 11.1
Jimny 2005 is 9.5
i have not told my 2005 M13a ECU that the new engine has another CR so it still ignites when it should for the old engine.
That is the reason for the pre detonation and using 98 octane almost makes it go away completely.
Others have reported the same issues.
Some have also used the M15a swift sport engine with 11.1 and the same issue.

M18 swap done in the southern hemisphere makes no such issues as the CR for that engine is 9.6

If you use earlier Liana engines (pre 2008) with lower compression rates you will not have the same experience..
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_M_engine#M16A (2008 and newer has 11.1)
(My Liana engine had a smaller TB as well compared to your english ones (older) with bigger diameter. could be other differences as well..)
Also the rattle is kind of intermittent. I used the car for a long time without noticing during daily driving.
When hauling a trailer over a mountain pass with well warm engine the sound was most noticable.

Guess if you live in a flat area, listen too loud music, using worn out spark plugs, not hauling too much and driving nicely you may never notice.

www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread....-Another-Jimny-sound
www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/123577-Jimny-engine

auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13348

www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f...start=300#wrapheader
>Car still rattles a bit when labouring the motor (do 60km/h stick it in 5th and plant your foot - you'll see what I mean) but thats attributed to a >motor with more torque and power operating on a smaller car with ladder chassis & live axle - or so my mechanic says.
>>no, that is called pinging/pinking technically called pre-ignition... put some higher octane fuel in or set the timing.

Sorry, I understand the situation now! Ignore me.

No, i do not want to ignore It is always wise to challenge the findings as I could be wrong, or at least not open to other solutions. (I have been mistaken before, once back in the nineties )
The release of finding what seems to be a plausible solution may cloud our judgement. More so the longer we have been searching for a solution..

anyways i still wonder if i can use the ECU from a Liana or if i have to reprogram the ECU?

Or can i trick the crank position sensor?

Still having this problem wich may be caused by the difference in compression rate on the donor engine.

I am also experiencing a loss of power above 2000rpm. it does not run as well as it did straight after the engine swap, i have to use one gear lower now in the same hills. Almost as it has its m13a engine back.
Tried resetting the ECU by leaving it without power overnight and i sensed it was a bit more powerful when doing the first test run, but as soon as it was warmed up, and doing the first hill, it was back to its lesser state again.
There is no fault codes or other symptoms. (handbrake warning light stays on but that cannot be it..?)
I have been running it on 98 octane for a while now to reduce the pinging.

Front cat was removed because it was broken, and some parts of it may have cluttered the second cat, but i had the no.2 out and tried to shake out the pieces. Putting the retrieved pieces back together did not add up to one complete cat element though. The pieces was collapsed so difficult to assess this i guess.

I am afraid i will damage my engine if this is not fixed..
www.autos.com/car-maintenance/what-causes-engine-pinging

I have no way of adjusting the ignition other tha ECU remapping right?
No cooling issues that i know of..

Any suggestions what to try to do next?