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TomDK wrote: You'd do a lot better in terrain with a diff locker than some cheap 3-5" suspension lift. And good quality shocks makes it possible to go faster offroad. Long cheap shocks does not.
Not everybody has the same requirements as you. I'd rather have a cheap lift than a locker, the locker won't help keep my sills or underbody intact and I'm not interested in going fast off-road.
Some of us have it all... +4" Lift, 235/75s, and proper big fat 26 spline shafts... with an LSD to slot them into... and an ARB locker... snorkel... LED light bar... and a Hi-Lift Jack (it's bolted to the internal ORA roll hoop), and ORA sill bars... (think that covers everything listed above)
Some of us have it all... +4" Lift, 235/75s, and proper big fat 26 spline shafts... with an LSD to slot them into... and an ARB locker... snorkel... LED light bar... and a Hi-Lift Jack (it's bolted to the internal ORA roll hoop), and ORA sill bars... (think that covers everything listed above)
I think that there is an advantage to using the RS larger 26 spline shafts and CV's with the rear diff internals in the front.
That is the fact you have a stronger 4 pin diff.
Having said that, we have not seen how the standard 2 pin front diff holds up to the rigours of 31" tyres in competition with the Heavy Duty shafts and no weak CV to act as a fuse.
I think the proof of the pudding will be in the eating. We shall have to see how the front diff on Tom's Jimny and Russ's Jimny cope in testing.
You will need to give it hell by spinning the wheels up on lock and suddenly getting grip on a dry mud, high grip surface and let us know the result.
There's no point having a warranty on the CV's and shafts if they stay in tact but your diff explodes as the next weakest part of the transmission. If you have a Rocklobster I am happy that will cope after the diff so if the front diff can handle it, stuff it, go that way and get these new ones! They are cheaper and easier!
The next test would be with a front ARB and 31" tyres and the same test. They are warrantied though, so you'd have thought they'd have been tested with a locker before going on sale with the warranty.
Time will tell and I shall watch with interest.
If these shafts stand up to the rigours and the front diff also - I might consider handing over some hard earned to Russ if he decides to sell them - if I don't move onto a bigger 4x4/give up the hobby that is.
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
You're completely missing the point Kirky. This isn't about whether the standard diff will hold up to the stronger shafts or not. This is only regarding 22 splines vs 26 splines. Isn't it pretty obvious that with stronger shafts and joints you'll be moving the weak point?
And to answer your comment on what I have to do to check if the shafts will hold.
What a silly suggestion. Why would I try to provoke a shaft or joint failure? I use my Jimny mostly for competition. HD shafts or not I need my stuff to last the entire race. One of the conditions for winning is having to complete the race on good time. Not possible with broken bits.
Warranty or not. And of course there's a point in having warranty. Anything can break. Even the "mighty" 26 splines stuff from RS.
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