Hi Guys,
I have recently had to do some repairs to a Jimny, so thought I’d share my experiences.
It’s an 03 Jimny with the M13A engine (black cover on top of engine, thermostat under the inlet manifold, J5T23891 M1 Crankshaft Sensor behind alternator on driver’s side).
The Crankshaft Sensor can be easily accessed by disconnecting the alternator tensioning arm and lowering the alternator until it touches the metalwork below it. The sensor is easily removed using a ¼” socket set (10mm socket). Suzuki quoted £89 +/- for a genuine part, but I found a Mobiletron CS-J008 equivalent on eBad for less than £20. Comes with a two year Warranty. Arrives on Thursday, hopefully it will do the trick.
If using a breaker bar to tension the fan belt (for example, after changing the thermostat), be careful to avoid accidentally dropping it on to the crankshaft sensor.
Ask me how I know !!!!
The thermostat can be replaced without removing the inlet manifold. You will have to remove the throttle body though, and lower the alternator out of the way by undoing the tensioning arm. I used a ¼” socket set (10mm socket) and a 10mm ratchet spanner on the therstat cap. It’s a bit fiddly but easily done in an hour or so. Before fitting the new thermostat, I used the Sealey VS0044 flush gun to flush the cooling system through (yes, I covered the alternator with a supermarket bag). Disconnect the heater core and Radiator, and flush them out independently.
I needed a new throttle body gasket (13421-69G00 (0.45mm thick), or 0.4mm gasket paper).
I made sure to carefully scrape the mating surfaces of the throttle body and inlet manifold clean with a new Stanley knife blade, and wipe clean with IPA.
I discovered that the front-most of the core plugs on the passenger side of the engine block can be replaced without removing the exhaust manifold off, the other cannot. I removed the exhaust cover and soaked the exhaust manifold nuts with a penetrating oil of my choice for as many days a possible, and used gas burner / heat source on the nuts (and the core plug) to avoid the major disappointment of snapping something.
While changing oils, (transfer box, gearbox, and diffs) I discovered that the properties of NAPA 75W-90 FS oil are close enough to suit my needs, as I don’t do anything too extreme. 6 Litres is just enough to complete the job and leave a dribble for spare. I could not get my new Silverlide metal suction syringe to behave properly so used a filler bottle with plastic hose. Next time I’ll get one with the internal hose that goes to the bottom of the bottle, so I don’t have to tilt the bottle while squeezing it. Could probably cobble one together in time for the next change (30,000 miles).
And lastly... for now.
I will never again buy a compressor from SGS Engineering. That was a disaster from start to finish. Took a week to to deliver a" next day delivery" order and the people I spoke to could find out what was going on. Literally told me they could ONLY contact their Tracking Team using an internal messaging system, and could not phone them at all.
I hope my experiences help someone to get back on the road in short order.
As an aside, I have also seen a seen a Yourtube video of a young guy doing “MY FIRST EVER CLUTCH CHANGE ON THE SUZUKI JIMNY!”
Seems like a breeze if you can get the Jimny about 500mm off the ground, and have an alignment tool.
I also changed the water pump.
While the original one was sealed with sealant, the new one was supplied with a paper gasket (0.7mm thick)
Very straight-forward, especially if the radiator is removed.
Slacken alternator belt (12mm).
Remove coupling (and fan) from water pump (10mm).
Unbolt water pump (12mm).
Carefully scrape and clean the water pump mounting surface (Stanley knife blade and IPA).
Remove the M6 studs from the coupling mounting plate on the water pump (heat, long-nose pliers).
Fit new parts in reverse order.
Happy 4x4ing
