Tow Bar

Maybe a stupid question but do you need to remove the rearbumper when mounting a towbar on the jimny? or is it just bolt on? and do they deliver 10.9 bolts with the towbar or do you replace them yourselves?

And for the guy who mounted his electrics on the door: How big was the hole you drilled in your door?

Dutchjimny wrote: Maybe a stupid question but do you need to remove the rearbumper when mounting a towbar on the jimny? or is it just bolt on?

Yeah you have to take the bumper off to put the nuts on the bolts which hold the tow bar to the chassis. It would be so much easier if the chassis came with caged nuts. The rear bumper is really easy to take off. The light clusters have to come out to get access to a couple of the bolts which hold the bumper on.

This was the case with mine anyway, I'm not sure if other tow bars are different and have ways of getting around taking the bumper off.

Its an easy job fitting the towbar, wiring is the hardest bit if you're not confident with auto sparks!

Bumper removal is so simple,
2 bolts in each wheel arch
2 bolts to remove each light cluster - clip them back after taking bumper off so they don't dangle and you'll need the door half shut to get the hinge side out.
1 bolt each side under the light clusters
3/4 bolts along door opening
2 screws underneath
pull the bumper away from the curve of the arch
leave the wiring inplace and lay it on a sheet.

It seems surprising that a Land Rover 90 weighing 1.6 ton is plated to tow 3.5Ton whereas a Jimny at 1.1Ton can only tow between 400 & 1000 kg when the construction is so similar.

I guess I'll not be hitching up my transporter trailer - even empty! Maybe I could put a hitch on the wheelbarrow or something;)

Si

Dutchjimny wrote: Maybe a stupid question but do you need to remove the rearbumper when mounting a towbar on the jimny? or is it just bolt on? and do they deliver 10.9 bolts with the towbar or do you replace them yourselves?

And for the guy who mounted his electrics on the door: How big was the hole you drilled in your door?

Not a silly question, I found it easier to remove the rear bumper as you can see what you are doing a lot better.

As for my electrics, all I had to drill was 3x 3mm pilot holes though the door skin, and, with the inside trim removed, fix using self tapping screws. I used some silicone to seal around the screws, then fed the wiring though the rubber door conduit into the rear.

The only thing that dictates where you can mount the socket is the seams inside .. its a bit of trial and error, but I used a centre punch from the inside to make a small mark in the door skin so I could drill though.

I also use a 1meter coiled extension cable to allow for the articulation of a traileras the socket is offset.

Best place for socket is here, Seems awful complicated fitting on the tailgate constant flexing of the cable opening and closing the door is bound to shorten its life.
See the thread "Fitting single electrics to a towball."