Cordless Impact Wrenches 1/2".

I am so fed up with nearly tripping over my air line each time i use my pneumatic impact wrench that I am considering buying a battery powered alternative. As my cordless tools are all Milwaukee these would be my preferred choice but more importantly, how do they stack up when it comes to wheel nuts or even suspension bolts/
All comments gratefully received.

Roger

I have Ryobi tools and have had a cordless impact wrench for a few years. It works fine on most wheel nuts and anything else which is on tight.

If my Ryobi won’t loosen it then it’s the big breaker bar.

I would imagine Milwaukee would be similar.

Roger Fairclough wrote:

I am so fed up with nearly tripping over my air line each time i use my pneumatic impact wrench that I am considering buying a battery powered alternative. As my cordless tools are all Milwaukee these would be my preferred choice but more importantly, how do they stack up when it comes to wheel nuts or even suspension bolts/
All comments gratefully received.

Roger

I can wholeheartedly recommend them - I've just bought my first 1/2" drive Milwaukee M12 cordless impact, the "second gen" stubby (2563-20) with 550 ft-lbs of break-away torque, I've had the original or first gen M12 stubby, but in a 3/8" drive (250 ft-lbs) for several years and it has done everything I have asked it to, and that includes lug nuts & suspension.

I was about to step up to the M18 platform to go to a "mid torque" which would have meant new tool, new batteries & a new charger when Milwaukee released the second gen M12 which does require a specific battery to deliver the higher torque, but decided to stay with the M12 as the new battery will also work with the existing tools - the decision to go 1/2" was simply because you find the higher torque load on larger fastners, and those sockets don't come in a 3/8 drive.

Both the M12 & the M18 are available in both 3/8 & 1/2" drive, the M12s are generally more compact, the M18s are generally more powerful & more expensive, since you already have Milwaukee cordless just get which ever battery platform you currently have.

I too have a gen 1 milwaukee m12 stubby in 3/8 drive and have yet to find anything on a jimny it won't touch. The only thing I know to be a bit much for it would be the crank pulley bolt but I haven't needed to do it yet. I also have a 1/2 makita mid torque in 18v that is mainly for tractor jobs. It's good for 1000Nm in reverse which is more than enough. I decided to go for the m12 as it's a better form factor but it did mean having to invest in another battery system over the existing makita. Worth it though and also milwaukee seem to have more automotive tools which is also useful if a bit expensive.

No matter what mark of battery powered machine do read the specs. compare the Nm figures and take the imperial numbers with a pinch of salt. I have seen many conversion problems and wrong figures related to that.

Mine is a small and light 250Nm Blue Bosch. it has a 2-in-1 tool holder with 1/4” internal hex and 1/2” square drive so it is very useful and I would never change it.

250Nm is not enough for the bigger nuts and bolts but for me a small and light package was more important.
I still keep my air powered machine for the heavier jobs.

The bosch is used not only for wheel nuts but all around the car and house.
I also use an even smaller 12v 1/4" inhex impact driver for screws nuts and bolts on the car.

That's a good point about rated torque they all suffer from marketing. If you want actual data then combine the model number you are looking at with torque test channel in the YouTube search bar and that will give you real figures and appraisal against similar products.