New Gen4 Snorkel

Cutting a hole is easy. Stopping it being a place of potential rust is much harder, so is reversing the mod should you want to down the line.

What a great product installation write-up. It's going to help plenty budding G4 snorkel fitters.
Re the door rubbing - Is that a result of a lack of template for the captive nuts, i.e are you able to move them a few mm forward and still clear the bonnet and door? As you say it's not a big issue, but is it something you can avoid?
Looks good fitted.
Mike

wrote:

Cutting a hole is easy. Stopping it being a place of potential rust is much harder, so is reversing the mod should you want to down the line.

wrote:

What a great product installation write-up. It's going to help plenty budding G4 snorkel fitters.
Re the door rubbing - Is that a result of a lack of template for the captive nuts, i.e are you able to move them a few mm forward and still clear the bonnet and door? As you say it's not a big issue, but is it something you can avoid?
Looks good fitted.
Mike

Thanks.

You reuse one existing bolt hole near the A pillar. So that sets the fore/aft location. You can tilt the snorkel up and down a bit for the 2nd hole. But you can’t go too far in either direction. So for my example, I’d say no. You had no real choice on the location to get it to avoid hitting the door.

300bhpton.

Just a thought. If you moved the main body of the snorkel towards the front to avoid the door when it is being closed, will the front edge of the snorkel then foul the bonnet? If not could you file a groove in the fixing hole adjacent the "A" pillar to improve things? Then you drill and fix the rivnut to suit the new position.

Roger

So I've done some experimenting today and I can confirm the Bravo snorkel is indeed the cause of a vibration around 2000rpm.

For clarity, the snorkel itself isn't loose or rubbing. I fully believe it is something harmonic related to the engine and air intake.

Fitting the original ducting completely cures the problem (snorkel still fitted and in place, just not connected to the air box). There is a minor vibration at low rpm, but it just feels like an engine at low rpm. Certainly nothing a dealership would be interested in.

Reconnect the Bravo snorkel and at 2000rpm you can make it sound like a fog horn. Which really is the best way to describe it, it is a very low frequency noise. And very akin to what a fog horn would sound or feel like.

To induce, use 3rd, 4th or 5th gear. If you have a slight incline you can labour the engine and keep it in the rpm band easier. And accelerate through 1500-2300rpm. You need to use 75% + throttle pedal travel or wide open throttle.

With the Jimny the engine is very tractable at this sort of engine rpm, so it is a rev range you are likely to frequent a lot. 30mph is approx 2000rpm in 4th for example.

I have videoed it, although the microphone doesn't really capture the essence of the booming low frequency. I will be passing all info over to Bravo Snorkel to see what they say (although it wouldn't surprise me to get no response, but fingers cross).

TBH, I'm not sure it is something I can live with. At higher speeds it is fine, although still a hint at 3000rpm, but very very subtle.

Under engine braking and costing you can also feel the vibration through the brake and clutch pedal. The brake being the most obvious if you are covering the brake pedal as you approach a round-about/junction. Agin with the factory ducting you don't get this sensation, so it must be related to air flow harmonics of the engine.

I note the original pipe you remove has a baffle on it and also some additional air holes. So I wonder if it is a know "peculiarity" of the engine that Suzuki had tuned out with this bit of ducting. I haven't tried running the engine without any ducting to the air box, that would be quite interesting to see what it does like this. So I'll try and do that.

I would say the engine really does feel like it revs and pulls better with the snorkel fitted, which again would support that something dramatic is changing with the air flow. It is much more rev happy at high rpm. When I fitted the AT tyres I noted that the vehicle lost some of it's "pep" and get up and go. With the snorkel connected it completely reverses this. Again you can feel it having driven back to back with the factory ducting.

Also to try and add add a little science. On a hill near here, with the factory ducting it wouldn't pull 5000rpm in 4th, but it would with the snorkel fitted. A gain of 200-300rpm+ and maybe 4mph+ higher speed. Which would support the fact the engine is making more power with the snorkel.