Its Re:Re:Re:Turning the traction control off (Gen 4)

Gee, thanks Martin!! I love the explanation, Jimny Electronics, 101.1.

I can see the short answer is NO!
I hold out hope that, one day someone in an office somewhere will change the 10.6V to 12.6V and my battery will re-charge?

I am not that hot on electronics but I would have thought that at 10.6 volts, a battery was dead.

Roger

Roger Fairclough wrote: I am not that hot on electronics but I would have thought that at 10.6 volts, a battery was dead.

Roger

It is.
Anything south of 12.5v was considered flat and in need of a charge.

The 10.6 to 16.3 volt range of the alternator is what it can output. Something is commanding it to output the voltage. Therefore if it is outputting low, either the alternator is faulty or the command circuit is telling it to do the wrong thing.

If it's is being told wrong then the sensor shunt on the battery is faulty or there is a faulty connection or wire in the circuit. If the ECM thinks the engine needs help it will command the alternator to drop the voltage it is generating to help relieve the load on the engine. You could probably disconnect the battery sensor and create a little circuit to simulate demand on the battery and see if the alternator output is varied by the ECM

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Roger Fairclough wrote: I am not that hot on electronics but I would have thought that at 10.6 volts, a battery was dead.

Roger

10.6volts is just a statement of the controllable range specification of the alternator, not what it should output at any given time.

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Thanks Martin for the detailed explanation of the alternator. Does any JB64/74 in various markets come with a conventional (old fashioned) high output unit? As you point out the system doesn't appear to be that clever so changing the alternator and rearranging some wiring might well give all the charge you'd ever need. Chris