Quaife ATB differential

Back lash will usually be between 0.15mm - 0.2mm, so you are aiming for 0.175mm but remember you need to take 3 separate measurements at 120 degree increments.
You also need to check the crown wheel runout. this is typically 0.1mm and again should be checked at 3 different positions.
Remember also that when you buy your dial gauge you will need a magnetic stand with it's various arms and clamps. Quit often you can buy them as complete kits. From experience, American tolerances regarding bearing fit are much tighter than Japanese equivalent, so be prepared to fit the taper roller inner races with a hydraulic press.
Take your time and ask lots of questions.

Roger

Roger Fairclough wrote: Back lash will usually be between 0.15mm - 0.2mm, so you are aiming for 0.175mm but remember you need to take 3 separate measurements at 120 degree increments.
You also need to check the crown wheel runout. this is typically 0.1mm and again should be checked at 3 different positions.
Remember also that when you buy your dial gauge you will need a magnetic stand with it's various arms and clamps. Quit often you can buy them as complete kits. From experience, American tolerances regarding bearing fit are much tighter than Japanese equivalent, so be prepared to fit the taper roller inner races with a hydraulic press.
Take your time and ask lots of questions.

Roger

Hi
Yes i am getting a magnetic stand with arm as well - these will arrive by Nov so I will have to wait a few weeks. But I am wondering if I should get a bendable octopus arm with clamp like I saw in some other youtube videos (somewhat like a gorillapod arm).

Did you mean tapered roller bearing when you said "taper roller inner races"? Parts number 25/26 in the diagram linked earlier? These are usually press-fitted on some kind of lathe machine I guess - I think the garage I am planning to get this done may have a press already, otherwise we have non-automotive small-time workshops a quick scooter ride away to get this done...

Thanks

The type I use have a main rod about 300mm long with a secondary rod that can be clamped in whatever position you need. The dial gauge is clamped to the second bar. I know about the "octopus" arm but I have never used one so I cant comment.
Taper roller bearings have 3 parts, the outer race, the inner race and the cage with the rollers. You need to press fit the inner race onto the diff. unit and please get it the right way round and yes I have seen people fit them the wrong way!!!
A hydraulic press is standard equipment in any reasonably sized workshop. If the guy picks up a sledgehammer, go somewhere else. You do not use a lathe to press fit bearings.

Roger

Got it. Yep I used the wrong word - not a lathe - a quick google search revealed my mistake. Press fitting the bearings should not be a challenge the machines are quiet common as you said, I’ve seen them in action here and there...

Thanks for the encouragement and guidance so far gentlemen.

Good news! I went back to the same garage to discuss the installation plan and procedures and the owner happened to be there this time. He told me they already have a .001mm DTI guage and to cancel the order I placed. I also found the old mechanic who used to service my car over there earlier in fact he was the one that installed the Ironman leaf and suspension kit on my car. He sounded quiet familiar and confident with the whole process so I'm quiet relieved now! I plan to get this fitted the coming Friday.

Sounds good. It's always better to work with someone you are familiar with.

Roger