Lockright tips

RichiesJimny wrote: You reposted while I was typing :laugh:
Strip down the diff and remove the thicker shims on both side gears also make sure you have swapped the side gears round.

Thanks, will try that tomorrow
I take it you mean the shims on the outside of the sidegears, and not the shim spacers that came with the lockright kit

When you stripped the diff down there should have been two shims on the side gears remove the thicker shims and try again.
I can't recall having any extra shims in my kit when I fitted it.

If you look on the bits4vits website you'll find a guide in his blogs or google lockright fitting.

RichiesJimny wrote: When you stripped the diff down there should have been two shims on the side gears remove the thicker shims and try again.
I can't recall having any extra shims in my kit when I fitted it.

If you look on the bits4vits website you'll find a guide in his blogs or google lockright fitting.

I think it's me getting it a bit wrong. I mean the thick spacers that installs on each side of the pinion joint

I will try without the thick shims tomorrow. Strangely, I only have one shims fitted on one side. Not sure if it's thick or thin

The shims are very thin, and it looks like there is only one in there but if you take it off it will magically split in two, most jimnys seem to have two each side in my experience. (gonna be shot down in flames now by people that only have one shim from the factory lol)

Gary

funkyjimny wrote: The shims are very thin, and it looks like there is only one in there but if you take it off it will magically split in two, most jimnys seem to have two each side in my experience. (gonna be shot down in flames now by people that only have one shim from the factory lol)

Gary

You were right. There were two shims, glued together with oil

Removed the two thick shims, swapped the two sidegears around and put it all back together again. And seems like all is working fine now. I get a light clicking sound when turning one wheel off the ground

So thank you very much for your help guys

funkyjimny wrote: I've had a lockright rear diff before but I didn't fit that one, I fitted one myself in the current car and had trouble with it banging all the time and not always unlocking properly.
A friend fitted one last week and had the same problem, took it back out and sorted it as did I today.
If you are planning on fitting one make sure you ignore the manual that comes with it and download the full version from the manufacturers site.
The problems that both I and a friend encountered were to do with the centre block that carries the pins, I just put mine in and that was that, but on removing it today I turned it over to find that the hole through the middle was off centre causing one side of the diff to bind and not unlock properly. The downloaded manual states that this block is not an 'accurately machined part' and may need 0.005" (5 thou) taking off with a sander. Try putting the block both ways up first and make sure it is clear of the plate below and not touching. I found that I had to take 120 thou off to clear this on one side... Bit different to the manuals 5 thou !
Both my friend and I also removed one of the two thin washers behind both the side gears to give more clearance. I then set the backlash at 5 thou - couldn't find the suzuki manual but it felt right !
On refitting its great, no bangs and nice quiet clicks.

Chuffed.
Hope this helps someone and saves them having go do the job twice! Many thanks Phil for your email support today !

Gary

Ok so im draging this post up again.

I installed my locker today, to find out it doesnt unlock. I had removed the thick shims as I read in this post. I took it out again but cant find anything wrong in my opinion. The only thing i see is that you sanded down the pinion block, and you mention it should not touch the plate below. Do you mean the spacer that comes with the kit? Should i perhaps try sanding the block down a bit?

There should really be a detailed guide in the wiki for this, every post i find online says 'google it' 'lots of post on this' but I cant find anyone doing a detailed guide on this on a Jimny, there are many for the sj but that really doesnt help on the problems we meet with the jimny. (hoping someone with patience to make a guide see this) :lol:

Hmm.. it’s all a long while back now , after 15 years of Jimny ownership I’m now on trail bikes (or off lol!)
. I seem to remember that if you tighten the diff up too much I.e not enough backlash it will not unlock... but it’s been a few years since I had a diff apart (thankfully!)
Hope you get sorted.
Gary

Surprised to get a respond from you!
I tried putting it together with the original pins now as they were 14mm and the ones in the kit are 15mm and therefore moved more easily in the block. But there was no difference. Taking it apart again tomorrow and study the parts around the block as you said and maybe sand it down a bit. Sent an email to jimnybits also for tips.

MadsV wrote: Surprised to get a respond from you!

Perhaps a mate of his emailed him to give him a nudge

Had to be something :lol:
You dont have any tips Dave?

No, sorry, I've never fitted one in a Jimny (yet?), I've done a good few in Vitaras which have always been fine and quiet in operation, but I've noticed that my mates' Lockrights seen to clunk and bang more in Jimnys...

I've got an ARB air locker in the back of mine...

Today I removed the two thick spacers that come with the kit. Now it unlocks and ticks when I spin a wheel!
I got a more detailed guide with jimnybits, an english/swedish older guide and its done on a Jimny. I got a .rar file with it on by mail, so if anyone wants it let me know