Lockright tips

I've had a lockright rear diff before but I didn't fit that one, I fitted one myself in the current car and had trouble with it banging all the time and not always unlocking properly.
A friend fitted one last week and had the same problem, took it back out and sorted it as did I today.
If you are planning on fitting one make sure you ignore the manual that comes with it and download the full version from the manufacturers site.
The problems that both I and a friend encountered were to do with the centre block that carries the pins, I just put mine in and that was that, but on removing it today I turned it over to find that the hole through the middle was off centre causing one side of the diff to bind and not unlock properly. The downloaded manual states that this block is not an 'accurately machined part' and may need 0.005" (5 thou) taking off with a sander. Try putting the block both ways up first and make sure it is clear of the plate below and not touching. I found that I had to take 120 thou off to clear this on one side... Bit different to the manuals 5 thou !
Both my friend and I also removed one of the two thin washers behind both the side gears to give more clearance. I then set the backlash at 5 thou - couldn't find the suzuki manual but it felt right !
On refitting its great, no bangs and nice quiet clicks.

Chuffed.
Hope this helps someone and saves them having go do the job twice! Many thanks Phil for your email support today !

Gary

Good to know, thanks for that

Thanks for the heads up. Do you have a link to the online manual?

I used the original suzuki shim rings and not the thicker shim rings that are supplied with the kit as they held the locker too tight. Mine has always worked perfectly . I can lift 1 wheel and spin it by hand and I can just hear a light ticking noise.

supergaz wrote: I can lift 1 wheel and spin it by hand

mighty mouse :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

I've just installed a Lockright locker today.

But seems like the two shafts are 100% locked at all time. Haven't driven it yet, but they are locked pretty hard together. Does this mean I should take it all apart again, and remove the two thick rings that came with the Lockright ?

No, could be OK, make sure its in 2wd and try a gentle bend left then right and you should hear a gentle clicking from the diff as it unlocks, if not its too tight.

richmondgear.com/index.php/installation-manuals

Gary

Thanks will give it a try

Looks like I will have to take it all apart and try again.
Have lifted one wheel off ground and can't rotate it a bit, not even by force.

So I will probably have to grind the pinion joint down as well.

Not sure what Supergaz means with using the original shims instead of the ones provided with the Lockright kit, as the original diff only has shims on the outside of the side gears.

Or should I start by removing the original shims on the outside of the side gears?

Put the car in gear jack up one wheel and try and turn it by hand it should turn freely with a clicking sound from the diff (you may need to rock the wheel backwards and forwards to unlock it) if it is too tight remove the two thicker shims.

RichiesJimny wrote: Put the car in gear jack up one wheel and try and turn it by hand it should turn freely with a clicking sound from the diff (you may need to rock the wheel backwards and forwards to unlock it) if it is too tight remove the two thicker shims.

Just to be sure, you mean the thick shims that came with the kit?

You reposted while I was typing :laugh:
Strip down the diff and remove the thicker shims on both side gears also make sure you have swapped the side gears round.