What did you do to your jimny today?

Fitting king pin bearings. It is officially one of my least favourite things to do. Not because it is difficult, it isn't. What it is is messy. And greasy. And I'm getting too old for that! Blergh.

Took my Jimny to RedMetal Fabrication for some more "upgrading"

Installed a new horn and fog lights, finaly.

Been hunting the cause of a worrying shake and rattle sound from the driveline today. I was almost convinced the transfer box bearings were gone so started pulling the props off. Feeling the box as i turned the various inputs/outputs and listening it all sounded ok. Did the same with the gearbox. Checked the oils. No problem found

Looked further back and found the rear panhard rod adjuster nut was stuck up from where it should be and the rod rattled on the thread. [strike]Took it off[/strike] cut it off (bolt cold-welded itself to the bush insert ). Lots of play in it so pinched the new one destined for Ulysses and fitted that. Need to weld this one to fix it i think, but needs length set first for Ulysses.



Test drive and no difference to the noise :evil:

Another look around under and realised there were some wheel studs missing from the passenger side rear :woohoo: :blink:



Pinched some from an old shaft and welded the buggers in this time :laugh:



Test drive and Yay! its fixed the mystery worrying noises

This goes to prove that the cause of a noise, wobble or vibration can be far from the obvious thing sometimes. Just glad I dont have to rebuild the transfer box!

Hi JimnyStu,

This looks interesting! Does this mean you may have a decent 3D model of the Jimny double-DIN aperture? My to-do list includes making some form of surround to neaten up the aperture around the 8" display I have in mine at the moment. Nothing fancy - just to cover non-display parts and match it to the centre stack bezel.

If you do have a 3D model, is it something you may be willing to share...?

Nick

Fitted a pair of Suzuki wind deflectors and finally got round to fitting the Jimnybits roof rack. I put the brackets on a week ago but had to wait for my brother-in-law to crop up and help me lift the rack up there. Damn thing weighs a metaphorical ton.

I had a perfectly good bar-mounted rack on it before but I'm in the middle of a two-stage house move and I'm going to have to get some pretty heavy items up there. I was concerned that the plastic feet on the stock roof rails wouldn't take the punishment, so I got this.

Changed the bolts fastening the rear seat bottom hinge to the floor, to M8 thumb screws I bought on ebay. Now i can more easily remove the flip-up seat for sleeping on the passenger side.
Slowly turning it into a camper

Fitted a light bar, not because I need one, more to make it look a little different to all the Cashcows, Pukes and the rest of the SUVs out in the world. I now have the famous "how to get the cable in" dilemma without resorting to a snorkel. When I've figured it out I'll post some photos.



The sun even came out to have a look!

Scimike wrote: Fitted a light bar, not because I need one, more to make it look a little different to all the Cashcows, Pukes and the rest of the SUVs out in the world. I now have the famous "how to get the cable in" dilemma without resorting to a snorkel. When I've figured it out I'll post some photos.

The sun even came out to have a look!

Nice. You could route the cable in through the back door. Have a look where it meets the roof from above on the hinge side. Its got a big enough gap for a cable to sneak through

I ran a multi-core SY flex up there, looped it down and in through the door rubber alone. Zero holes drilled. It goes to a junction box on the roof-rack, then connects to various lights that way. The SY flex is because it has a sort of metal armouring layer, and looks pretty :laugh:

you can just see the cable peeking out of the hinge side of the rear door here...

@ykuza: Couls you post a picture? Thank you!

Thanks for your suggestion Riccy, running the cable to the rear was on the cards if getting it in via the A pillar turned out to be impossible.
However today I investigated the possibility and went for it with my drill. Yes you can get a cable in via the aerial mount without damaging anything.

The following pictures show the hole position, I am just waiting for my cable to turn up, already pulled through a mains flex cable as a tester.
Going to use an XT30 connector to allow disconnection and profile Ariel mount plastic for a better exit angle, sealing with black silcaflex.

Hole position from top



Screw driver inserted just to show angle of hole as drilled. This clears both the Ariel important bits and the bodywork.



Will post more pictures as I wire it up.

Today I made the light bar switch mount using the " I don't know what it's for blanking button", mounted switch and fused relay. Just waiting for my 12v red / Black cable to arrive and I have working light bar. It's cheap and Chinese, I'll report back with any issues, but so far so good.

Switch and drilled Jimny blanking button.


All fitted ready, pleased with the look even if I do say so myself :laugh: