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restoration after 10 years in the driveway

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10 Sep 2020 20:45 #228059 by Mr CC
needed new shocks, so had to get the old ones out, the bottom bolts were not a problem,
the top ones were seized, the one on the left (passenger side) came out with a heat and a set of mole grips wd40 and some wiggling
the enemy on the right took a week and a half of the same procedure.
every day I would spend an hour on it. until one day it moved.
very difficult to get to and you cant grind it off as you would be left with a stud which would be impossible to access.
got new bolts washers and shocks

to be fitted after the control arms get bushes and go back in.
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10 Sep 2020 20:47 - 10 Sep 2020 20:48 #228060 by Mr CC
exhaust was out and in great condition, just needed a rub down and paint with VHT aluminium
now I have a very interesting Garden Mosaic
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Last edit: 10 Sep 2020 20:48 by Mr CC.

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10 Sep 2020 20:56 #228061 by Mr CC
managed to get the control arms out.
got one bolt out with heat and 2 large stillsons
makes me think haw shakeproof these bolts are lol:laugh:

had to cut inside the axle mounts very carefully to gat all four rear ones out.
one had rusted on to the bush liner, no chance of ever shifting that.

got new bolts HT steel, stainless washers and spring washers (same size as shocks)

spent all day today cleaning up the control arms ready for new bushes. the pic is of one mostly done and the other still all rusty.
got them finished and painted hammerite silver, but was getting dark so its tomorrow to finish them.
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10 Sep 2020 21:04 - 10 Sep 2020 22:59 #228062 by Mr CC
got the propshaft refitted with new washers and a clean up of the bolts,
derusted and painted black
also the rubber matting for the boot area arrived.
if anyone has any ideas what to stick it down with please leave a reply

next plans are
rear control arms finished
shocks fitted exhaust fitted (will need to take the cat out to derust and paint)
before I turn it round, get the front end up and weld inner sills
clean up steering rods, replace shocks

a tip for anyone trying to remove the top shock bolts, use a hammer and strong flat screwdriver on the spring washer, give it a good hammering. The washer can rust to the bolt and the shock housing. if you free the washer, its half the rusted problem gone and the bolt can move in the thread a bit more, then only the the rusted thread to bother with.
Last edit: 10 Sep 2020 22:59 by Mr CC.

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11 Sep 2020 08:58 #228068 by Reason2doubt
You are certainly going to town on this Jimny! Well done - by the way, how difficult would you say it was to remove the fuel tank?

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11 Sep 2020 12:40 - 11 Sep 2020 12:46 #228078 by Mr CC
Thanks Reason2doubt, working every day to get this on the road, hopefully by the end of this month.
for the tank. you have to remove the rear prop shaft and exhaust mid section first, both should take an hour between them though you will probably need a new seal on the cat side of the mid section when replaced.

there was only 1 bolt which moved and I had the advantage of no floor on the 3 bolts nearest the rear. had to drill the other 5 out and re-tap the holes.
M8 bolts 7mm drill.

once all the bolts are out I would advise having a friend help. the tank needs to drop halfway so you can disconnect the bayonet style connectors on the fuel lines.

there is another thread on here and a wiki all about removing the tank.with pictures of the connectors, and I would suggest, spend time on each bolt to remove re-tap, grease etc and replace one at a time. once you have all six, the job is the best part of a day to remove the tank, replace the filter, and reinstall the tank. I had seized bolts on the filter flange and took me a few days after the tank was filled with water using heat, wd40 and a lot of mole grip wiggling, before they moved.

its keeping the tank steady when the tank is half way down where the valuable friend is a great help or it will want to roll around even on a flat surface. :)
Last edit: 11 Sep 2020 12:46 by Mr CC.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Reason2doubt

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