Re:Rear diskbrake conversion

I would undo the bolt holding the cable to the chassis to allow you to get it together. You might find by putting that bracket at a different angle helps (it can rotate once undone a bit). You are probably right about it being the huge axle droop causing the problem.

The caliper bracket should rest on the torx screw. With it how it is its like having the handbrake on a little all the time. Will wear pads fast and slow the car.

Riccy wrote: I would undo the bolt holding the cable to the chassis to allow you to get it together. You might find by putting that bracket at a different angle helps (it can rotate once undone a bit). You are probably right about it being the huge axle droop causing the problem.

The caliper bracket should rest on the torx screw. With it how it is its like having the handbrake on a little all the time. Will wear pads fast and slow the car.

Correct me if I'm wrong but when the actuator/'caliper bracket' is taken off from the caliper then there is no braking force on the brake pads, right? Because I just simply took off and put back in a different angle. It seems to me the actuator/caliper bracket is spring loaded (?) and you would only put the brakes on if you're working against the spring by pulling the bracket, right? So by changing the relative position/angle between the braket and the threaded stud should work? I'm not a mechanic hence asking.
It would be good to know why there is a torx screw and what is it for? Acting like a bump stop?