Are you building a Mud Monster or a Pavement Princess??
If so you can have your own thread in this section.
This section on other websites has led to arguments and contention. People are posting pictures of their pride and joy and therefore CONSTRUCTIVE comments only please!
If so you can have your own thread in this section.
This section on other websites has led to arguments and contention. People are posting pictures of their pride and joy and therefore CONSTRUCTIVE comments only please!
Dave's la(te)st buggy build...
Less
More
- Posts: 9095
- Thank you received: 1820
03 May 2020 09:44 #221833
by Lambert
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
Replied by Lambert on topic Dave's la(te)st buggy build...
Very neat. Aren't the padlocks going to be rattle traps or are you doing something about that?
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
The following user(s) said Thank You: X8GGY
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
03 May 2020 09:55 #221834
by Scimike
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
Replied by Scimike on topic Dave's la(te)st buggy build...
I would never have guessed the function of that.
The most of the cabin is missing, he will be lucky if he can hear the padlocks rattling :laugh:
Lambert wrote: Very neat. Aren't the padlocks going to be rattle traps or are you doing something about that?
The most of the cabin is missing, he will be lucky if he can hear the padlocks rattling :laugh:
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
The following user(s) said Thank You: X8GGY
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Less
More
- Posts: 3727
- Thank you received: 923
03 May 2020 10:53 - 03 May 2020 11:08 #221835
by X8GGY
Replied by X8GGY on topic Dave's la(te)st buggy build...
Couple of hours and in for a comfort break and a cuppa...
The hole that was cut on the right, the piece that was cut out was drilled to 12mm and then a bolt was welded on the back, and then the whole "washer" was then welded to the end of the seamless tube on the right side, and then tidied up...
Then the fastening plate goes on the top... I'm sure I had some 12mm stainless wing nuts left from the blue Jimny, but I can't find them, so there's an M12 nut there for now, I'l order some wing nuts off eBay later this evening, as I'll need one to secure the Hi-Lift Jack too...
From the top...
And there's the hole for the padlock...
Rattliing - on final assembly they'll be a sheet of rubber cut to shape behind the snatch block to stop it rattling, the padlocks will only be on when it's parked up anywhere, otherwise the wing nut will be holding it in place
And as Scimike says, there's no way I'll hear it!!! LOL :lol:
And here's how it will kind of look when it's all welded in...
It needs to go slightly to the left to make it more aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but you get the idea...
Edit : Can't help but think that looks like a monkey's face!! :lol:
Back off to do some more...! :woohoo:
The hole that was cut on the right, the piece that was cut out was drilled to 12mm and then a bolt was welded on the back, and then the whole "washer" was then welded to the end of the seamless tube on the right side, and then tidied up...
Then the fastening plate goes on the top... I'm sure I had some 12mm stainless wing nuts left from the blue Jimny, but I can't find them, so there's an M12 nut there for now, I'l order some wing nuts off eBay later this evening, as I'll need one to secure the Hi-Lift Jack too...
From the top...
And there's the hole for the padlock...
Rattliing - on final assembly they'll be a sheet of rubber cut to shape behind the snatch block to stop it rattling, the padlocks will only be on when it's parked up anywhere, otherwise the wing nut will be holding it in place
And as Scimike says, there's no way I'll hear it!!! LOL :lol:
And here's how it will kind of look when it's all welded in...
It needs to go slightly to the left to make it more aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but you get the idea...
Edit : Can't help but think that looks like a monkey's face!! :lol:
Back off to do some more...! :woohoo:
Last edit: 03 May 2020 11:08 by X8GGY.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Less
More
- Posts: 3727
- Thank you received: 923
03 May 2020 11:28 #221839
by X8GGY
That's better!
Had to chop a quarter inch off the left side and weld it to the right, but it has to look right!
Replied by X8GGY on topic Dave's la(te)st buggy build...
That's better!
Had to chop a quarter inch off the left side and weld it to the right, but it has to look right!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Less
More
- Posts: 3727
- Thank you received: 923
03 May 2020 13:14 #221844
by X8GGY
Replied by X8GGY on topic Dave's la(te)st buggy build...
The turned my attention to security for the waffle boards...
A big 12mm bolt through the top rear corner will stop them jumping ut, or being nicked!
Also needs another nice big wingnut here!
And a padlock through this end will stop the bolt being removed
Got to get all these things done before welding it all in place...
A big 12mm bolt through the top rear corner will stop them jumping ut, or being nicked!
Also needs another nice big wingnut here!
And a padlock through this end will stop the bolt being removed
Got to get all these things done before welding it all in place...
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Less
More
- Posts: 3727
- Thank you received: 923
03 May 2020 16:38 - 03 May 2020 17:00 #221850
by X8GGY
Replied by X8GGY on topic Dave's la(te)st buggy build...
Next... the simplest winch / "split charge" system ever...
Mark out a piece of offcut steel 5mm plate and holesaw some holes in it...
Cut it out and tidy it up...
Drill and bolt to the ORA (OffRoad Armoury) old stock Odyssey PC1200 battery cage, and bolt the switches in place...
PARKED in the garage... BOTH switches off, so the two batteries are not connected and the winch is not on either...
I read years ago that two dis-similar(ly charged) batteries will try and top each other up, and eventually discharge themselves ( :lol: sounds rude that?!), so whilst not being used, everything is left OFF.
Ok, we're off greenlaning...
DRIVING - the battery link switch (top) is ON so as we're driving around - between 'lanes - the batteries are linked and the BIG Odyssey winch battery gets charged up, ready for...
WINCHING! - if we get [strike]stuck[/strike], errr, delayed I mean... the battery link switch gets turned to the OFF position, and the WINCH switch gets turned ON, so the winch is then running only off the BIG Odyssey winch battery, we can winch to our heart's content, safe in the knowledge that the engine battery is fine, it won't be depleted...
Ok, we're over the obstacle...
Back to the DRIVING setting, the batteries are re-linked to charge up the BIG Odyssey winch battery, and the winch is safely switched OFF...
End of a great day's greenlaning...
Back to the PARKED up position, both switches are OFF whilst the Buggy is parked up in the garage...
Sorted
Wiring diagram... Simples!
I had a "proper" T-Max split charge system on the blue Jimny, previously known as S200KYS, but...
1) The big pot / relay failed once and had to be replaced...
2) If the engine battery was flat, and the winch / aux battery had power, the manual "Switch" on the control panel wouldn't work, as it didn't have power as the engine battery was depleted... hence why I had a manual battery link as well... this is also useful if you;re REALLY stuck, and do want power from the engine / alternator to power the winch, I have the option of doing this on the above "system" of switches, but will need to run some thicker cable between the two batteries to cope with the draw if the engine / alternaor power was powering the winch...
(Thanks to Riccy for his advice on power loads for this!)
Mark out a piece of offcut steel 5mm plate and holesaw some holes in it...
Cut it out and tidy it up...
Drill and bolt to the ORA (OffRoad Armoury) old stock Odyssey PC1200 battery cage, and bolt the switches in place...
PARKED in the garage... BOTH switches off, so the two batteries are not connected and the winch is not on either...
I read years ago that two dis-similar(ly charged) batteries will try and top each other up, and eventually discharge themselves ( :lol: sounds rude that?!), so whilst not being used, everything is left OFF.
Ok, we're off greenlaning...
DRIVING - the battery link switch (top) is ON so as we're driving around - between 'lanes - the batteries are linked and the BIG Odyssey winch battery gets charged up, ready for...
WINCHING! - if we get [strike]stuck[/strike], errr, delayed I mean... the battery link switch gets turned to the OFF position, and the WINCH switch gets turned ON, so the winch is then running only off the BIG Odyssey winch battery, we can winch to our heart's content, safe in the knowledge that the engine battery is fine, it won't be depleted...
Ok, we're over the obstacle...
Back to the DRIVING setting, the batteries are re-linked to charge up the BIG Odyssey winch battery, and the winch is safely switched OFF...
End of a great day's greenlaning...
Back to the PARKED up position, both switches are OFF whilst the Buggy is parked up in the garage...
Sorted
Wiring diagram... Simples!
I had a "proper" T-Max split charge system on the blue Jimny, previously known as S200KYS, but...
1) The big pot / relay failed once and had to be replaced...
2) If the engine battery was flat, and the winch / aux battery had power, the manual "Switch" on the control panel wouldn't work, as it didn't have power as the engine battery was depleted... hence why I had a manual battery link as well... this is also useful if you;re REALLY stuck, and do want power from the engine / alternator to power the winch, I have the option of doing this on the above "system" of switches, but will need to run some thicker cable between the two batteries to cope with the draw if the engine / alternaor power was powering the winch...
(Thanks to Riccy for his advice on power loads for this!)
Last edit: 03 May 2020 17:00 by X8GGY.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Riccy
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Time to create page: 0.229 seconds