Re:Re:Lumberjack Jimny

I imagine a forestry trailer with hydraulic drive would be a hefty beast and outside the realms of being towed by any 4x4 as we know it. The type for manoeuvring a caravan to position it either at home or on a site is neither powerful enough nor practical for moving a trailer/caravan out of a sticky situation. What I envisage is an electric motor within the hub unit connected to a battery and controlled by a rheostat. Modern day brushless motors would easily be powerful enough as there use is purely at low speed for short periods.

Roger

Far from it Roger. They come in all sizes, including many designed to be used behind ATVs. 


But forestry is different to agriculture. Foresters have no concern about soil conservation, they will get the timber out over any terrain regardless of the damage they do. The standard approach to farm stuff, on the other hand, is that if you're getting stuck or making a mess then you probably shouldn't be there. Damaging the soil structure is a no-no. So farmers are unlikely to pay extra for a feature they would hope to never use. A second vehicle on the end of a rope is never far away.

Busta wrote: The Jimny is on new standard height front springs, front and rear. I had been running it without the anti roll bar for better articulation, but with the welded front diff I've now got traction even with wheels in the air so I've re-fitted the anti roll bar for better handling at speed on the road.

Will contact you iro front diff weld. Very interested in going that route myself.

Sent from my SM-A505F using Tapatalk

Hi lookonimages.

Can you tell me what you hope to achieve with a welded up front diff?

Roger

With all due respect Roger, last time you shared your misunderstandings about welding the front diff the thread had to be locked. Please don't take this thread down that path. I'm happy to share my real world experience on the subject with anyone who asks in a private message or on a separate thread.

wrote:

Busta wrote: The Jimny is on new standard height front springs, front and rear. I had been running it without the anti roll bar for better articulation, but with the welded front diff I've now got traction even with wheels in the air so I've re-fitted the anti roll bar for better handling at speed on the road.

Will contact you iro front diff weld. Very interested in going that route myself.

Sent from my SM-A505F using Tapatalk

I'd be cautious with a welded diff, you'll ruin your turning circle and there are times when it is better to allow some wheel spin. It'll also mean that it would be unsuitable to use on road (slippery conditions) in 4wd. I understand the benefits of a 'locked' diff and the cost savings doing it this way. But IMO there are heavy compromises if it isn't a dedicated off road use only vehicle.

Lambert, that's exactly my experience having been running a welded front diff on and off-road in my daily driver work truck Jimny for the past 2 years.
But as I said to Roger, I don't want my 10 year old thread to be taken over by people with a poor grasp of the subject telling me I'm wrong, when they simply have no experience of it. I realise it's an unconventional mod and people are curious. I'm very happy to discuss it in private chat or a separate thread.

I was respectful of lookonimages when I asked him what he hoped to achieve with a welded up front diff. and if he, or anyone else wants to know my feelings on the subject they can do so by private message or a new thread. I will however respond to the comment that I have no experience of driving with locked diffs. Your wrong!

I will say no more on this thread.

Roger

Many people have experience of driving with a rear diff locked. Some people have experience of driving with both front and rear diffs locked. Very few people have experience of driving with only the front diff locked.