Re:Rear diskbrake conversion

Was just about to type exactly what @Riccy has said. Can push them into those tubes another 20mm.

I left handbrake cables hooked up and connected at the lever end. Connected the cable at the caliper end last, by levering the caliper actuator as if the caliper was braking, and then hooking the cable end in.

I cannot pull the protecting cover of the cables as their movement restricted on the cross member mount.

But I was able to reposition the actuators on the calipers and that seemingly did the trick! I'm unsure if the actuator needs to sit on the torx head nut or not though.

Thank you for this real time Q&A session! :woohoo:

If nothing else works you could think about shortening the metal tubes of the hand break close to the caliper. This way the complete length of the „outer sleeve“ of the hand break cables would get shorter. I would expect that the outer sleeve is still sufficiently long for a proper routing to the hand break lever, even with the axle at its lowest position.

This is the part we are talking about. The end of the cable should be pushed in flush with the end. In the picture yours is not.



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Forgive me if I was not clear enough. (That's the side effect of being Hungarian...:sick: )
I do understand that you say I need to push the black rubber hose fully into the shiny metal sleeve but it's not possible without removing the mounting bracket from the cross member of the chassiss. There is seemingly a nut (?) on the rubber hose just before the bracket which stops it moving towards the caliper. The available lenght of the rubber hose is simply shorter than the distance between the mounting point and end of shiny metal sleeve!

The cable lenght issue has been resolved by rotating the actuator towards the end of the cable. However having the actuator in this new position it does not rest on the torx head anymore! (and yes the end of the black rubber hose is still not reach to the shiny metal sleeve)
I run out of ideas what I did wrong.:blush:

A logical explanation coud be the fact that the axle currently is lowered enough to take the springs out by hand!?!
If so I must say I'm creating issues by doing things constantly in the wrong way around!?! :whistle: :laugh:

I would undo the bolt holding the cable to the chassis to allow you to get it together. You might find by putting that bracket at a different angle helps (it can rotate once undone a bit). You are probably right about it being the huge axle droop causing the problem.

The caliper bracket should rest on the torx screw. With it how it is its like having the handbrake on a little all the time. Will wear pads fast and slow the car.

Riccy wrote: I would undo the bolt holding the cable to the chassis to allow you to get it together. You might find by putting that bracket at a different angle helps (it can rotate once undone a bit). You are probably right about it being the huge axle droop causing the problem.

The caliper bracket should rest on the torx screw. With it how it is its like having the handbrake on a little all the time. Will wear pads fast and slow the car.

Correct me if I'm wrong but when the actuator/'caliper bracket' is taken off from the caliper then there is no braking force on the brake pads, right? Because I just simply took off and put back in a different angle. It seems to me the actuator/caliper bracket is spring loaded (?) and you would only put the brakes on if you're working against the spring by pulling the bracket, right? So by changing the relative position/angle between the braket and the threaded stud should work? I'm not a mechanic hence asking.
It would be good to know why there is a torx screw and what is it for? Acting like a bump stop?