Tell us about your Jimny and post some pictures! Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.
I have managed to identify that the colour is Cyprus Blue Metallic. The colour code may be 97000-Z2J as I’ve seen that listed on an old touch up pencil but that also lists several other numbers so I will seek to confirm it.
Anyone know the steel wheel colour as asked above please.
Just thought I'd add a query to this old posting rather than start a new one. There is what appears to be a breather pipe on the engine between the rocker cover and inlet manifold. From the oil spray on the rocker cover I can only assume that the hose fitting is leaking slightly. That end of the hose seems to spin on a fitting fastened into the rocker cover but I'm not aware whether its supposed to spin or not. I asked the parts sales person at the local dealer as to what that fitting is but he was unable to find any details on their system. Can anyone advise how that hoses is meant to seal as I assume this leakage will be affecting it's running and can only get worse if not addressed.
The green thing is the PCV valve.
The seal is an expensive rubber grommet fitted into the rocker cover, then the PCV valve just pushes in and expands it for a perfect seal. (When new- after a couple of years of oil and heat the rubber shrinks and goes soft then it leaks)
Arrived in the Lakes last night for a break. Meant to post this then but was tired and very hot. At a nearby quick stop the passenger electric window ceased working when in the part open position. Neither drivers door nor passenger door button for that window worked suggesting it’s a fuse or the motor. I’d like to get it sorted today ( Saturday)so we can close the window for security and have no electrical equipment with me so will look for a garage that’s open. Is there a history or known problem with window motors ? Do the Windows have separate fuses as the drivers window is working fine?
Well the Jimny went for its latest MOT and failed again on sill corrosion ( soft on the back on both sides) and a small patch on one wheel arch. Currently looking for someone to get a price for welding again. If anyone knows of a decent garage or individual in the Tyne and Wear area I’d appreciate it. I think I’ll have to SORN it in the meanwhile.
I’ve not been oh here for a while, primarily due to a life changing health issue which occurred during covid lockdown. I managed to get someone to weld the Jimny last year and they got it MoT’d while there. It wasn’t a quality job but a 22 year old car wasn’t worth spending much money on and other estimates were multiple times the value of the car. A year later it’s just failed it’s MoT again, The list includes the following:Repair immediately (major defects)
Brake pipe excessively corroded Front (to rear x 2) [1.1.11 (c)]
Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting Nearside Front (inner wheel arch) [6.2.2 (d) (i)]
Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting Offside Front (inner wheel arch) [6.2.2 (d) (i)]
Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced Nearside Rear (inner wheel arch) [6.1.1 (c) (i)]
Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantl)
reduced Nearside Front (outer sill) [6.1.1 (c) (j)]
Anti-roll bar ball joint excessively worn Nearside Front (drop link) [5.3.4 (a) (i)]
Exhaust lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits [8.2.1.2 (c)]
The tester was exceptionally busy so couldn’t show me or discuss much but one thing he said was that past welding on the sills and rear wheel arches were not done well and they had just tacked the repair panels, with current requirements being for continuous welds. I did say that it’s got a separate chassis and is not a monocoque car, and that all cars are spot welded rather than continuously welded but he said it’s a requirement of the MoT.
The emissions were off because the lambda sensor had failed rather than engine wear. It’s only done 46,000 miles in 23 years, 20 of those in our ownership.
it’s probably a scrap job this time but having a couple of days think about it. I do love it myself and prefer to drive it on local trips to my own car.
I’ve had a starting estimate ( based upon what can be seen at this point) for the welding and am looking into the other costs.
Is there a difference between lambda sensors in the early G13BB SOHC engines to later DOHC engines and what is a good source for them?
The price of the drop links appears to vary wildly between suppliers so I’m wondering if there are known quality issues with some or whether any one would do?
