Whistelling sound above 80km/h?!?

I am about to replace the back ones and at low speed there was no noise to start with, it just got worse to the point where it makes noise at any speed....
Jimny stopped until they are changed.

yes I am changing both for peace of mind.

Well I successfully changed the rear wheel bearing.
Took all day, dawn to dusk :ohmy:

Problems encountered

1) the brake pipes would not unscrew from the brake cylinder, despite a spray of PlusGas every night for a week. I took the pistons out and heated the casting with the blowlamp (which doesn't work in the cold so I had to warm it on the stove :blink: to get the butane to vaporise: make sure you get one that uses propane mix for the Winter) to get them out.

2) it took a long time to get the bearing off, when grinding the spacer down, it cahnges colour when it is thin enough

3) The hand brake end of the brake adjuster is handed, one side of the fork is longer than the other. I couldn't figure it out, and my photos were no use, so I fitted it the way it looks in the sketches in the manual, long side outwards.

4) I took an hour to get the brake shoes back on, what with looking for pointy pliers, and steel wire to make a pulling loop to get the spring re-hooked on. The pulling loop doesn't work unless you drill a hole in the brake shoe however.


Finally finished, and to the test ride:woohoo:





And The Noise is still there :pinch:
:pinch:

facade wrote: 4) I took an hour to get the brake shoes back on, what with looking for pointy pliers, and steel wire to make a pulling loop to get the spring re-hooked on. The pulling loop doesn't work unless you drill a hole in the brake shoe however.

Clamp the hooked end of the spring tightly with mole grips. Pass a long piece of metal between the mole grips and the hub (breaker bar, crowbar, hammer). Use the piece of metal and hub as a lever and push the molegrips, complete with spring into position. Use the mole-grip handle to push the hook into the required place. Almost took longer to write it than to do it.

If you fit the adjuster bit the wrong way around the brakes are "on" and its difficult to get the drums on, so the fact that you re-assembled it all suggests its the correct way around.

Martin

mlines wrote: If you fit the adjuster bit the wrong way around the brakes are "on" and its difficult to get the drums on, so the fact that you re-assembled it all suggests its the correct way around.

Er...

The drum wouldn't go on, I assumed because the shoes weren't central so I unwound the adjuster a couple of turns.

Looked to me like the fork could have gone either way round, I put the shorter side against the handbrake lever.

Do you have roof bars ? I have the Suzuki bars which have slots in them at each end for adjustment, when at speed they whistle so I put tape over the slots and stopped the noise.

The idler on my power steering belt whistled just before it seized.
Bry.D