Sump pan - suitable RTV

Permatex is used at work in the factory professionally, some loctite products too.
For lids, hatches, housings, flanges..
Sometimes special gaskoid paper gaskets but still with Permatex.
But I am pretty sure it is Black.

But any rtv gasket silicone should do, Havent had any leaks from those at home on my cars on flanges and housings and I buy cheap stuff.
Cleaned and scraped and buffed with scotchbrite before applying the sealant. 

yakuza wrote:

But any rtv gasket silicone should do, 

I never thought it would happen, but I have to disagree with @yakuza.

Ordinary RTV silicone cannot take even the slightest exposure to solvents like petrol.  So when it comes to engine work, one has to pick a silicone goo that is appropriately formulated to resist petrol.

Permatex Black (sometimes called Permatex Right Stuff) is the correct product for the oil pan.  It will be a bear to get the pan back off again, but it will surely not leak.  

I used to do a lot of early Porsche motors.  Air-cooled engines piddle like your neighbour lady's toy dog, so one has to have a brace of top-quality, job-specific sealants to hand.  Or to put it differently, pick a sealant that doesn't fully work and the spots on the drive remind you for years.

I agree with Lambert 
For the fact the powder coat /paint on the new pan may fail over time
You could always go round with some paint when rtv is cured 

Motacilla wrote:

yakuza wrote:

But any rtv gasket silicone should do, 

I never thought it would happen, but I have to disagree with @yakuza.

Ordinary RTV silicone cannot take even the slightest exposure to solvents like petrol.  So when it comes to engine work, one has to pick a silicone goo that is appropriately formulated to resist petrol.

Permatex Black (sometimes called Permatex Right Stuff) is the correct product for the oil pan.  It will be a bear to get the pan back off again, but it will surely not leak.  

I used to do a lot of early Porsche motors.  Air-cooled engines piddle like your neighbour lady's toy dog, so one has to have a brace of top-quality, job-specific sealants to hand.  Or to put it differently, pick a sealant that doesn't fully work and the spots on the drive remind you for years.

Oh I love getting arrested when it is like this.

Funny but my collegues who do the building of the machines also do the later service and if needed dismantling. And they like the Permatex because it seals good, leaves you time to put it together right before it cures, and can be dismantled easy. Or so they say.

But back to the arrest. When I read your reply and thought about it I cant think of any time I have used RTV where there is fuel. Cant think of any of my cars that have leaked much fuel either.
So you are of course correct.


 

I'd just use an RTV silicone that is supposed to be oil resistant, most of the black ones are.

The trick though is to not overtighten the bolts- like the originals were judging by the witness marks on the old sump. (No sealer around the bolt holes, loads between them, so the flange was only touching at the bolt holes, with big gaps between them to fill with sealer.)

Overtightening just distorts the flange, and it leaks between the bolts. As Lambert says, the flange needs to be absolutely flat if it is to seal.

(Overtightening was why the old BL engines leaked like sieves, rather than a new cork gasket people would keep overtightening the bolts into a dry, hard gasket, which pulls the bolt heads through the flange. Then they always leak in short order with new gaskets as the flange is all bumpy!)

 

Japanese manufacturer, Japanese solution: