Suspension advice.

wrote:

Just on the cross member brace, most kits offer brackets to lower it for driveline clearance . This makes no sense to me, as you are reducing ground clearance.
Other options include less lowering of the bracket with a curved section removed to increase driveline clearance or the neoplot style that goes over the driveline so has no reduction in clearance.

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But where the brace is located isn't an area that is as likely to impact the ground. I don't think reduced clearance here is likely to be an issue, esp as you are likely lifting the vehicle at the same time.

wrote:

wrote:

Just on the cross member brace, most kits offer brackets to lower it for driveline clearance . This makes no sense to me, as you are reducing ground clearance.
Other options include less lowering of the bracket with a curved section removed to increase driveline clearance or the neoplot style that goes over the driveline so has no reduction in clearance.

Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

But where the brace is located isn't an area that is as likely to impact the ground. I don't think reduced clearance here is likely to be an issue, esp as you are likely lifting the vehicle at the same time.

My high clearance cross member has taken a couple of heavy knocks. You need to wheel harder

 My high clearance cross member has taken a couple of heavy knocks. You need to wheel harder

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I probably don't have much choice regarding the lower crossmember, to be honest. The one I managed to source is the one from Hardrace, but it does not look it will affect clearance in a significant way, particularly with the lift .

The advice regarding the bushes is very good! I will go for the Though Dog ones, then, and correct the caster in both axles.

At the end of the day it seems I will be keeping the following:

- Long Bilstein B6 + 40mm H&R springs
- Caster correction Though Dog bushes, front and rear
- Though Dog ABS relocation kit and braided longer brake lines
- Hardrace lower crossmember brace
- Light relocation kit

Or, Alternatively, the same but using an all in one kit. I will be ditching the stabilizer bar at the moment and the poly bushes .

You really shouldn't need the extended crossmember for the longer B6 shocks. AFAIK (this is based on what their catalogue info says) they are only marginally longer at droop than the stock ones. You only need to worry about the crossmember once you exceed 45mm at the front.

The thing to include would be a panhard rod relocation bracket at the back which is both useful with a lift to correct the geometry at the back, but also it corrects a weirdo bit of roll oversteer that the Jimny has. OME make one, Hardrace make one, so do Taniguchi (the latter is what I run).

For an all in 1 kit for most people the OME 40mm lift is hard to beat. It replicates the stock spring rate with better shocks and they have their own panhard rod relocation bracket so can just get it all at the one place.

The spring rates are pretty good from factory for a lot of people unless you carry a lot of stuff, and it's a good compromise kit between ride quality and lift and giving you better shocks. If one is carrying a bit more stuff then the Dobinsons IMS kit is another quality option.

Hi!

The advice regarding the panhard relocation is really good, thanks! I did not even consider it until now.

Full kits have the advantage of being designed as a unit, yes, which is great. It is something that really makes me consider getting one. As far as I saw, the most popular ones are from Ironman, Though Dog and OME. I did not try any of them myself, though, and everybody has a preferred brand. Apparently, the good thing about OME is that you can find spare parts everywhere in the bush or the outback, which is great .